Yachties in Hvar

Trip date: May 2019

While Aaron and I were "stuck" in Milna, we did a bit of shopping from the local vendors set up along the marina. I tasted some very interesting rakija, fruit brandy made in all sorts of flavors. Aaron bought the richest, most flavorful honey I've had in a long time, perfect for his tea and on my toast. And we bought a jar of sliced black truffles suspended in local olive oil. Aaron made soft scrambled eggs with truffles every day we were onboard the Sundance after these were acquired. Heaven!

4th day at sea, with breakfast finished, dishes put away and secured, we set off on a gorgeous morning for the posh resort town of Hvar. It was a 2 ½ hour sail to our next port; very relaxing to read our books and watch the pretty scenery from the table and bench seats on the stern of the catamaran.

As we neared the marina there was quite a lot of boat traffic, and Roko did a great job avoiding the boats crossing right in front of us. We were 2 weeks before the official season but Hvar was already busy.

Roko had suggested that we moor across the bay on Palmižana Island and use the water taxi to come and go to Hvar. We would be staying for 2 nights. But Aaron and I had our hearts set on staying in the ritzy harbor so our captain called ahead and got us a prime spot in the marina; we were front and center to all the action.

It was very choppy as we stepped off Sundance, but the day was a brilliant blue and we had plans to explore, so we didn't think much of it. It was time for lunch and we set off through the windy pedestrian-only streets to find the restaurant Macondo. We were here for Gregada, the local specialty,  fish stew made with whitefish, potatoes, olive oil, and parsley. It is served for 2 but could have fed 3 easily. It was one of the most delicious things we ate on our cruise!

After lunch we walked up to the castle and took in the amazing views of the harbor, the islands, the pretty red roofed buildings, and even our yacht! We spent the afternoon just wandering around the town, making our way back down the hill and around to the other side of the harbor. It was so pretty, and a tad busy with tourists, I couldn't imagine it in the high season.

On Roko's advice we walked to the end of the village and found Hula Hula bar perched on the water's edge. However you wanted to enjoy your drink seaside, they had it; tables/chairs, bar/bar stools, beach loungers, or warm flat rocks.

As we walked back to the boat, we were both pretty taken with the beauty of Hvar. We stopped at another beach club for more views and made our plans for the evening. We decided to stay onboard Sundance, have a few martinis, get a take-out pizza, and spend the night playing cards and people watching.

The marina was so rough, when we got back to the boat I had to call Roko to come and help me cross the gangplank! He loved that! haha! We realized we had made the wrong decision to stay in Hvar as the chop continued throughout the evening and during the night. We should have listened to Roko! We enjoyed the beautiful night onboard, but we would change our situation in the morning!

It was another gloriously gorgeous day the next morning. Roko was very happy to be told he had been right, and we sailed 20 minutes across the bay to Palmižana Island. The marina in the protected harbor there was like glass. Ahhhhh, no more rough chop!

As Roko cleaned the boat up, Aaron and I took a short hike to the other side of the island and settled into lounge chairs at the beach. For 100Ku each (~$14) we had our chairs for the entire day.

For lunch we met Roko at Toto's which has an expansive patio that is right above the beach. Food, views, wine, and company were all top notch! As we finished our meal a huge rain storm came out of nowhere! We took shelter at a covered table that a friend of Roko's had, and were treated to some rakija shots. Soon the storm passed and Aaron and I resumed our beach lounging.

That evening we caught the water taxi over to Hvar. I think it was about $7 round trip, skippers ride for free. Aaron had heard about a restaurant that is in an abandoned village just outside Hvar Town and had Roko call for reservations.

Once in Hvar, Roko spoke to a taxi driver and explained where we wanted to go. We hopped in and headed into the surrounding hills in search of our destination. The village of Malo Grablje has been uninhabited since the 1960's. Everyone, including some buried folks, were relocated to Milna as they felt it was a nicer place to live. No one sold their homes, they just left the stone buildings and walked away.

The restaurant Stori Komin is run by Berti Tudor, the grandson of the first person to relocate away from the village, in the old house he use to live in. There are only a handful of tables, all outside on a covered terrace with gorgeous views of the surrounding hills.

The specialty here is grilled meats, and we requested the mix grill of lamb, beef, and vegetables. We had some local cheeses, anchovies, and olives to start. It is very rustic, very good, and we all loved it. Even Roko who hadn't been before and was very doubtful.

They called us a taxi when we were done and Aaron and I just made the last water taxi back to Palmižana. Roko stayed to hang with friends in town. It was such a fun night, and Hvar is such a beautiful spot. One thing to know on Hvar is that pretty much everything is cash only. Even nicer restaurants. And we didn't see that many ATMs so come prepared!

We were so happy the sun had finally come out and it looked like the nice weather was going to continue. In the morning we were off for another island!

All photos from the Dalmatian Coast cruise here.

Other posts from this trip:

Something About Slovenia

Beautiful Lake Bled

One Night at Hisa Franko

24 Hours Zagreb

Hiking the Plitvice Lakes

Dalmatian Coast Yachties
Every Yacht Charter Must End

Landed in Split

Arriving in King's Landing
Go-To: Dubrovnik

Eat, Drink, Dubrovnik
Lokrum Day Trip
24 Hours in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Trogir; So Nice, Went Twice

Dalmatian Coast Yachties

Trip date: May 2019

I was on my way to Split to meet my friend Aaron and board our 40' chartered catamaran for a week sailing through the Croatian Islands. To say I was excited was an understatement! But it wasn't all smooth sailing to start.

Our catamaran Sundance was chartered from Sail Croatia and originally we had 3 of the 4 cabins filled, which left 1 for the captain. Sadly one of my friends had to cancel just weeks before the trip due to a family emergency so it was Aaron, our captain Roko, and myself. The yacht was quite roomy and our luggage had a cabin of its own.

I had read Aaron's arrival time at the Split airport wrong and he ended up having to wait for over an hour for me to drive in from the Plitviče Lakes. We finally connected with our transfer driver, found the crew at the ACI Marina in Split, and left around 3pm for Milna on the island of Brač. Unfortunately we had very bad weather, rain and wind, so it was a good thing that our first sail was a short one. We had an excellent spot at the marina in Milna and settled in.

First up, grocery shopping at the tiny little market right on the waterfront. Next up, Aperol Spritz to encourage sunnier skies. We had a good dinner that evening at Palma, our captain's pick, of grilled fish with truffle ravioli. And finished the night with some drinks back on the boat.

We awoke the next morning to find that the weather was going to be keeping us, and all the other yachts, in Milna for another night. It wasn't raining but the surf was just too rough. Milna is very cute but also very small so we took Roko's recommendation and rented a car to explore the island. He had it delivered to the marina and drove us all around for the day.

We started at Galicija restaurant for a lunch of grilled lamb and roast potatoes, simple yet delicious. Then we headed over the island to the Museum of Olive Oil. Cute but nothing worth going out of your way for. Roko drove us to the very top of the island, normally the site for amazing views, but we were completely socked in with clouds. We headed to the cute town of Bol for a wine tasting at Stina Vina, which was great! And finally stopped to view Golden Horn beach, which changes its shape depending on the surf, before heading back across the island to Milna. It was a fun day and we were happy to get to explore the island.

And when we got back to the Sundance, there was some sunshine just in time for happy hour drinks on board! We took advantage of the nice weather and had an absolutely delicious pizza outside on the waterfront at Pizzeria Villa for dinner. We'd talk about this perfect pie a few times along the way!

The next morning the weather had cleared so we set sail for Starigrad on the island of Hvar. It was a lovely 2 ½ hour sail with mimosas in hand. We arrived at the marina just in time for lunch, so Aaron and I went off to grab a bite and explore.

My fried squid, salad, and rosé, with views of the water made for a very good lunch at Simple Cafe. Afterward we wandered the narrow stone allys and did a little shopping. Za Pod Zub deli was a great stop for buying an assortment of local cheeses, meats, and olives for aperos back on the boat. They also sell some very cute gift items.

The day had been warm but cloudy, but now the sun came out. So we headed back to the boat, made up some drinks, and relaxed on the trampoline while watching the sunset.

On these chartered yachts the skipper expects to be fed breakfast and lunch onboard; we purchased groceries and told Roko to help himself to whatever he wanted. It's customary to invite your skipper out for dinner or to pay for them to go out. Roko had friends in each port so sometimes he dined with us, and other times he went on his own. On this night he was meeting friends but he recommended we try Batana for dinner that night and called to make us reservations.

Aaron and I split a steak and an order of truffle pasta; both were excellent! I'd highly recommend this cute spot if you find yourself in Starigrad!

Nightcaps and gin rummy were had sitting outside on the stern of our boat. Ah, that yachting life!

The next morning we would sail into Hvar town!

All photos from the Dalmatian Coast cruise here.

Other posts from this trip:

Something About Slovenia

Beautiful Lake Bled

One Night at Hisa Franko

24 Hours Zagreb

Hiking the Plitvice Lakes
Yachties in Hvar
Every Yacht Charter Must End

Landed in Split

Arriving in King's Landing
Go-To: Dubrovnik
Eat, Drink, Dubrovnik
Lokrum Day Trip
24 Hours in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Trogir; So Nice, Went Twice

Hiking the Plitviče Lakes

Trip date: May 2019

From Zagreb I had a ~2 hour drive to the Plitviče Lakes National Park. The drive was easy, but once I turned off the freeway and was driving through the country, I encountered multiple snakes sidewinding across the road!

I was super excited to be spending such a beautiful day hiking through the 16-terraced lakes of this reserve. My plan had been to arrive and be hiking by 11am, grab a bite at one of the park's snack stands, and be done by the time the park closed at 6pm.

But when I arrived I found out that the park had recently implemented an advance online ticket sale system. I didn't have a ticket and it was too late to buy one online. So after standing in a ridiculously long line, trying to figure out if I was queued to buy a ticket, I finally learned that only 600 people are allowed in the park per hour. Tickets are sold for each hour, an hour before entry, for however many spots remain. I got in line at noon and was finally able to buy a ticket at 1pm for a 2pm entrance. During the hour I had to wait I grabbed some cevapcici, fries, and a radler.

I had read about the park and its stunning lakes, connected by walkways that passed over the clear blue waters, but was still completely stunned by the beauty when I finally was able to enter.

I chose to hike route C from Entrance 1, which would allow me to explore both the lower and upper lakes. The lower section was very crowded in places, I can't imagine how it was before they started limiting the number of visitors.

The weather changed just as I was completing the bottom 4 lakes, which helped to clear out some people. Luckily I had an umbrella in my backpack as it really started to pour! I waited for the boat that would take me up to the continuation of the C trail on the upper lakes, and before too long the sun was back out.

There is 2-way traffic on most of the paths, which are usually butted up against a lake or a waterfall, so it was frustrating to have people stopping to take selfies, or just walking 2 or 3 across. But once I got to the upper lakes the number of people dropped significantly and I found myself completely on my own many times. It was amazing!

You are just surrounded by water! Lakes, streams, waterfalls, springs... and it is crystal clear. Absolutely gorgeous! Even the forest is an amazing color of green. I just loved this hike.

I finished C Trail in two hours 45 minutes, ending at the bus pick up. It was another 15 min hike to Entrance 1 after the drop-off at Entrance 2. I was tired and ready for a shower and a cool beverage! It had been a spectacular day even with the hiccup that morning with the ticketing.

It was a quick drive to Hotel Degenija where I had a nice big room with a comfortable bed. The hotel is on a huge property with rolling grass lawns, a small orchard, and full-size outdoor swimming pool. I ordered a drink by the pool before moving inside for dinner at their Plum Café, which was fine but nothing to go out of your way for.

The next morning I had breakfast at the hotel, which was a good buffet selection of meats, cheese, breads, and eggs. Then I loaded my little rental car up and hit the road for Split; I was meeting my friend Aaron for a one-week yacht charter through the Dalmatian Islands. I was beyond excited!!!

All Plitviče photos here.

Other posts from this trip:

Something About Slovenia

Beautiful Lake Bled

One Night at Hisa Franko

24 Hours Zagreb
Dalmatian Coast Yachties
Yachties in Hvar

Every Yacht Charter Must End

Landed in Split

Arriving in King's Landing
Go-To: Dubrovnik
Eat, Drink, Dubrovnik
Lokrum Day Trip
24 Hours in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Trogir; So Nice, Went Twice

24 Hours in Zagreb

Trip date: May 2019

After an absolutely lovely four days in Slovenia, I drove across the border into Croatia and the capital city of Zagreb. There was a short wait at the crossing, and I had forgotten my passport in the trunk of my rental car so I was very popular with the cars behind me, but there were no complications crossing in.

Zagreb is a big city compared to the quaintness of Slovenia, it was a little bit of a shock as I drove through traffic. When I saw the entrance to the 95 year old Esplanade Hotel I was happy to pull into the driveway and hand my keys to the valet to take care of. The hotel was built in 1925 for the passengers of the Orient Express and has seen hundreds of celebrity guests over the years, including Josephine Baker, Elizabeth Taylor, Tina Turner, Hillary Clinton... and me! :)

My room was absolutely gorgeous, with a huge king sized bed, luxurious bedding, a dressing area, and big bathroom complete with soaking tub and separate shower.

It was late in the afternoon and I only had one night in the city so I set off to explore. Zagreb is very easy to walk around, as long as you are staying near the main sites. I followed the self-guided walking tour in my guide book and had a great stroll around.

First up was the beautiful cathedral and the nearby Dolac Market. The church was open, but unfortunately I missed the market by about an hour. I continued on to the adorable and touristy Tkalčlćeva Street, a social hub with tons of bars, restaurants and shops.

I chose one of the cafes with outdoor seating and wifi and had a glass of wine. It was absolutely gorgeous out!

I was heading towards St. Mark's Square when a jewelry store window display caught my eye. I went inside and asked about the gold ring I had seen. Turns out the shop, called Lapidarium, sells items from local jewelers and the man helping me was the designer. I loved it and wore it out!

St. Mark's is perhaps the most famous of all the buildings in Zagreb. The square is also the center of Croatia's government and when I walked up there was a military procession being rehearsed. I wasn't able to find out more than there was a parade coming up to commemorate the end of a war or battle but it was fun to watch their practice.

The church was closed for a wedding so I headed to the funicular (I had taken the stairs up the hill) and once at the bottom, strolled back to my hotel. It's really a lovely city, filled with flower stalls, beautiful buildings, and lots of outdoor cafés/bars.

I got cleaned up for dinner, had a drink on the terrace of the Esplanade and then called an Uber to take me to the 1 star Noel. This is Zagreb's only Michelin starred restaurant; atmosphere and service were wonderful.

My 4-course meal was $73, another $39 for wine pairings. A steal! I was also served a trio of amuse, bread with 3 kinds of butter (1 had prosciutto in it!), and a nice petit four dessert. I wasn't a fan of their special risotto; it was pureed together with green peas and favas. The flavor and color were great but the texture turned me off. The tuna sashimi trio and the duck were both fantastic though. I had a great time here! Definitely would recommend.

Nightcaps were had at Esplanade 1925, the hotel's cocktail bar. It was fine but unfortunately the bar was crowded with some Americans from Texas talking politics. Loudly and drunkenly. Not my scene.

I had a wonderful breakfast in the hotel's fancy dining room the next morning. The buffet was huge and then you also ordered a dish off the menu. Entirely too much food but I was setting out for a day of hiking so I felt justified!

It was just an overnight but I found Zagreb lovely and I was happy to have visited.

All Zagreb photos here.

Other posts from this trip:

Something About Slovenia

Beautiful Lake Bled

One Night at Hisa Franko
Hiking the Plitvice Lakes
Dalmatian Coast Yachties
Yachties in Hvar
Every Yacht Charter Must End

Landed in Split

Arriving in King's Landing
Go-To: Dubrovnik

Eat, Drink, Dubrovnik
Lokrum Day Trip
24 Hours in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Trogir; So Nice, Went Twice

One Night at Hisa Franko

Trip date: May 2019

I was watching the Netflix show Chef's Table and couldn't even figure out where Chef Ana Roš' restaurant was. But it looked lovely. And delicious.

Then I told my friend Aaron that I was going to explore Slovenia before meeting him in Croatia, and he asked if I was booking a table at Hisa Franko. When I googled the location and realized it was about 2 ½ hours from Lake Bled I emailed for a reservation. Originally they could get me in for dinner on the date I wanted but they didn't have a room for me to stay. The restaurant and inn are actually in the countryside of the settlement of Kobarid, there isn't anything close by so I asked for alternate dates for staying over and altered my plans.

I left Lake Bled after a full day of exploring and hiking and followed Google maps to Kobarid, which Hemingway wrote about in his novel A Farewell to Arms, as it was the Italian retreat during the 1917 Battle of Caporetto. I probably should have inspected the route Google had chosen more closely, as all of a sudden I was driving on basically a one-lane road, thru a mountain pass, that was extremely windy. At one point there was a lumber truck, taking down huge trees on the side of the road, and I had to drive under the tree hanging from the crane right above my car. Unnerving!

I wasn't happy with the drive, but I was thrilled when I arrived in the beautiful Soča Valley and pulled into Hisa Franko's parking lot. The woman at the front desk greeted me warmly and helped me with my bag up to my room (no lift). She showed me the room I had booked as well as another much larger one that there had been a cancelation on, which I happily took. I mean, I am not going to turn down a huge jetted bathtub and a king size bed!

After a soak and a nap I headed downstairs for a walk around before sitting for dinner. It's very secluded and quiet, and for anyone who has watched the tv episode, you'll recognize the creek with the rare Soča trout cutting right thru the property.

I was seated in a beautiful, if someone sparse dining room. The tables are very far apart, no chatting with the neighbors here. I ordered a martini (much needed after that drive!) and was brought a selection of amuse before the menu was delivered to my table. There was a little stool for my purse; bonus points!

Hisa Franko is currently #38 on the World's 50th Best Restaurants and there is no doubt in my mind that she will have a Michelin star before long. The courses were absolutely beautiful (21 of them!)

A few of my favorite bites were smoked tolmin cheese, lamb brains with berry preserved served inside a "donut", cuttlefish lardo with asparagus milk, and mountain veal.

I was so impressed when Chef Roš came around during service and introduced herself to each table. I was too shy to ask for a photo but I had a lovely chat with her. Near the end of the meal, diners were invited on a tour of the kitchen, wine cellar, and cheese cave. The restaurant is known to be the first in the region to age the locally made Tolmin cheese, referred to as pit cheese.

I thought dinner was a fantastic experience. And at €150 for dinner and €75 for wine pairings, I thought it was very fairly priced. I really look forward to seeing how Chef Ana continues to climb the ranks.

The next morning I came downstairs for breakfast and was blown away by how beautiful the breakfast room was! Large slider doors were open to the beautiful spring day. The trout brook could be heard babbling away. And my table was fully overflowing with the most delicious assortment of goods.

There was a basket of fresh fruit, a basket of fresh baked bread, a bowl of dried apples, various musli and granola toppings for yogurt, jams, butters, and a breakfast cookie. I also ordered scrambled eggs with herbs off the menu, all from their farm. It was such a lovely way to start my day. And when the waiter I was chatting with told me he'd grab my suitcase for me while I checked out, it was the cherry on top!

I'd highly recommend a visit to this little slice of heaven!

I had a 3 ½ hour drive to Zagreb, I was finally heading to Croatia and I was very excited! I looked more carefully at the Google maps and chose to take a direct highway this time. It actually sent me west into the Friuli region of Italy before looping east. I love driving through vineyards so it was the perfect route for me. Bonus that the land was also covered in poppies. So pretty!

Right before crossing into Croatia I stopped for lunch at Grad Otočec, an old castle taken over by the Relais & Chateau group and turned into a hotel and restaurant that sits on a small island in the middle of the Krka River. What's not to like?!

The food and service were both just ok, but the setting was gorgeous.

Slovenia had turned on the charm and I was under its spell.

All photos from Hisa Franko and Otočec here.

Other posts from this trip:

Something About Slovenia
Beautiful Lake Bled
24 Hours Zagreb
Hiking the Plitvice Lakes
Dalmatian Coast Yachties
Yachties in Hvar
Every Yacht Charter Must End

Landed in Split

Arriving in King's Landing
Go-To: Dubrovnik

Eat, Drink, Dubrovnik
Lokrum Day Trip
24 Hours in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Trogir; So Nice, Went Twice