Eh-eh-o eh-o ... Pompeii!

I woke up this morning and that damn song was playing on the radio. It's in my head and it refuses to budge. "...And the walls kept tumbling down
In the city that we love..."

Ahhhhhhhh! We went to Pompeii once, about a million years ago, and I will tell you that there were no boy bands bopping about. We went for a day trip while staying in Sorrento, it was an easy 40 minute ride on the Circumvesuviana train,with lush scenery of the coast on one side and Mount Vesuvius on the other.

Walking around it was quite eerie to be visiting what was once a thriving Roman empire city, now just ruins left by the volcano we were so close to!

It had rained pretty hard that morning so many of the streets of the ancient city were puddles. We used the large rock steps to cross the street just as the locals would have back in 78AD or so.

We had audio guides so that we could go at our own pace, listening to interesting tidbits about various buildings, streets, neighborhoods, etc.

This bath was beautiful and so well preserved. I remember the coolness of the interior and how pretty the color of the walls were.

There is so much to see, it's quite amazing really. We couldn't get over the architecture, the city grid, the streets and "cross walks". All of it.

This was a food stall where locals could come and get some Italian take out!

This is the decorative door step of a now non-existent home, an ancient welcome mat of sorts.

I wouldn't miss visiting Pompeii if you are in the area, that is for sure! It is fascinating!

"...But if you close your eyes, Does it almost feel like, Nothing changed at all?..."

We jumped back on the Circumvesuviana for a 30 minute ride to Naples and made our way to Da Michele for what is arguably the best pizza in Naples. We had to take a number and hang out with the rest of Naples until a table was available. And then we had the most delicious Margherita pizza (for $5!) paired with cold ($1) beers.

We spent the rest of the afternoon just strolling around Naples, it's a big gritty city but that is its claim to fame. On top of the normal grime, they had been having trash strikes on and off since the 1990's. Piles of garbage striving to reach the height of Vesuvius itself were everywhere, we even witnessed a few being burned right on the main streets. 

But just like any large city there are also very pretty neighborhoods, parks, churches, etc. I'd like to do a bit more time in Naples if I'm ever in the area again.

We got back on the train to Sorrento but accidentally chose the wrong one- not the first time this has happen in Italy! So we literally circumvented Vesuvius as our train went all the way on the other side of it. A 90 minute train ride turned into about a 2 1/2 hour experience. We got back in Sorrento just in time to see the sky light the buildings up a lovely color and to have a martini.

All Pompeii and Naples photos here

Capri Day Trip

One morning back in May of 2011, after a lovely breakfast on the sunny patio in Sorrento, we boarded the fast ferry to the island of Capri (pronounced CAP-ree, not like the juice box). The large ferry whisked us to the main port in just 25 minutes. From here we took a funicular up to the charming town of Capri and then boarded a bus which drove us up to Anacapri, then finally we loaded onto single chairlifts for a gorgeous (ie: terrifying) ride up to the very summit of the island.

It really was beautiful traveling over the tended gardens of the locals, seeing small farms, and of course the views of the Mediterranean. I just hadn't expected this single, barely strapped in chairlift. I had been expecting a gondola which in itself is a scary thing for me.

The views at the top were absolutely incredible though and this was well worth the effort (ie: terror). There is some nice space also to sit and relax with a drink while soaking up the views and the sun. Recommended.

We returned to Anacapri via the chairlift (I think there is an option to hike down) and wandered the pretty whitewashed streets until we found a little square and sat for lunch at Il Saraceno Trattoria. We weren't expecting much in this tourist area but the food was very good and our table outside on the terrace was exactly what we had hoped for.

Walking off our lunch by shopping around we stopped in at Sandalo Caprese. Friends had recommended the legendary shop, the owner still making shoes by hand. Both Dayne and I picked a few styles, had our feet measured and were sent off to finish our shopping while they created our custom sandals. To this day Dayne still declares these the most comfortable "mandales" he owns.

We grabbed a convertible taxi for the ride back down to the marina and joined a tour out to the Blue Grotto. Our pretty wooden boat took about 10 of us along the coast of the island to the rocky cove. Here there were a handful of small 2-man rowboats, each with its own captain, ready to shuttle us into the mysterious grotto.

We were the last tour of the day and the surf had gotten extremely choppy making it precarious to climb out of our boat and into the tiny dingy. Dayne and I sat on the floorboards and our captain explained that he had to time the swells of the ocean in order to get us safely inside the seemingly small opening in the cliff. This is hard enough when the sea is normal but this serious chop was adding a new level of danger. He cautioned us to lay totally flat until we were inside, he himself had to remain standing in order to maneuver the boat, he crossed himself and looked to the heavens and with that we shot through the tiny opening.

All danger and fears disappeared once we were inside of this tranquil and luminescent grotto. The water was one of those blue colors found only in nature. The temperature and air calm and relaxing. Our captain serenaded us with a beautiful song, the acoustics memorizing.

Soon we had to brace ourselves for the exit, again the timing had to be just right against the angry waves outside. We made it safely, clamored ungracefully back into our boat and headed to the marina, one of the boats towing the tiny rowboats as a thank you for allowing our tour to happen under such conditions.

We returned to Sorrento by "Jet" having truly enjoyed every bit of the beautiful island. Even if our outing was peppered with bits of fear!

All photos from Capri here.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Driving the Amalfi Coast

We've all heard the stories about the highway along the Amalfi Coast, the hairpin turns, sheer cliffs, and skinny roads barely big enough for two Fiats side by side, never mind two buses. Let me just say that these stories do nothing to in fact prepare you for the true terror that the actual trip evokes.

Our bus inches by another bus

Dayne and I caught the bus in Sorrento and grabbed seats on the right side as all the guide books instruct. Normally Dayne always gets the aisle seat seeing as he is 6'6", but seeing that I have a insane fear of toppling over a cliff in a bus along the Amalfi Coast I tucked him next to the window with instructions to take photos as I knew I would spend half the ride with my eyes closed.

Everything you've heard is true. The scenery is lovely, when I did look. And the cliffs are sheer, the twists and turns dizzying, and the roads are indeed impossibly narrow. More than once our bus had to slow to a crawl to inch past the oncoming car. I think the bus is the perfect way to go, all of the show and none of the driving. Plus how could you look at anything other than the road if you were driving?

Our first stop was Positano, entirely built into a hill, they say you either are climbing or sliding when going anywhere here. The town has two bus stops, one at the top and the other at the bottom of the hill. We exited the bus at the second stop, the bottom one, and spent an hour or so wandering the town and the beach front.

And then we started to make our way up to the top, deciding to have lunch at a little pizza place we had read about, near the upper bus stop. Wow, what a climb this was! 500 steps up, past homes that seemed to be a part of the rock hill itself. Stopping along the way to admire the ocean views, the interesting lanes, the... who am I kidding? We stopped to catch our breath!!!

We finally made it to Il Saraceno d'Oro where we had a lovely lunch of wine and pizza (with an amazing sauce!) and then went on to the top bus stop which was literally on the side of the highway.

Next stop Amalfi, another adorable town with a busy center square, lovely shops, and pristine waterfront. Almalfi isn't thought of as hill-hugging as its neighbor but the locals here still know how to climb a rise! We sat for an Aperol Spritz and gelato and enjoyed the plaza. Our bus trip had been about 2 hours total.

We opted to take the ferry back to Sorrento, just 50 minutes and a chance to gaze at the gorgeous coast line. I think that was the perfect way to do the day; crazy road trip one way, relaxing boat ride the next.

Coming back into Serrento

Have you driven the Amalfi Coast?

All Almalfi Coast photos here.

Sun-Drenched Sorrento

I'm craving sunshine. It always happens this time of year, when spring hits Seattle with her grey clouds and wet days. A couple of years ago, May of 2011 to be exact, we fled soggy Seattle for sunny Italy. A precursor to a cruise up the Italian coast and into France, we flew into Naples and boarded a bus for an hour long ride along the curvy roads to Sorrento. Immediately we had our first look at Mt. Vesuvius, stunned at how close it was and how many homes we could see hugging its sides. Our first glimpse of Sorrento was much more serene. We could tell we were in for some serious beauty shots.

 

We stayed at the lovely Hotel Belair which was a short walk from the center of town. As the hotel was on a small hill, looking down onto Sorrento and its bay, we were overwhelmed with stunning views each and every day. The staff was quite nice also, serving us drinks while we waited for our room to be ready and always eager to help with directions, taxis, etc. 

 

That first day, after a short nap, we walked into town and were immediately struck by the scents of jasmine everywhere. We strolled along the main part of town, found the Bar Fauno and enjoyed great martinis and people watching.

Sorrento was to be our home base for the next 4 days while we explored the Almalfi Coast, Pompeii and Naples. We didn't actually do a lot in the town itself but we found it to be very central for the Circumvesuviana (train around Vesuvius), the buses, and the boats.

We never had a great meal in Sorrento. We had good meals and we had ok meals. The first evening we ate at l'Antica Trattoria which we found very expensive for kindof boring food. We ate at O'Parrucchiano which was inexpensive but still just ok food. Taverna Allegra was a cheesy place drawing lots of tourists but the food was actually good. And dinner at the Parco Ibsen was in a very interesting location, had good prices and good food but still not something I'd say "Wow!" about. 

But I'd stay in Sorrento again, and I'd stay at the Belair again. The pool, the view, the bar, and the breakfasts were all top notch. 

Now don't you feel warmer already? I do!

Sorrento photos