Drink It In; Central Europe

Central Europe may not be first on everyone's list with regard to cocktails but I had some great drinks in some very comfortable settings when we visited in December of 2013.

Strangely Bratislava has quite a number of places to get a finely mixed drink, we only stopped in at one but arguably it is one of the best.  Budapest, while a much larger city, is known more for its Ruin Bars but I found lovely cocktails elsewhere.

Many places were closed for the holidays when we visited Vienna so we only got out to one proper cocktail bar. Bar Halbestadt is a bit out of the way but the drinks are good and the owners are incredibly friendly. It's a funny little space with tiny tables, glowing soft red light, and glass walls looking out to the busy thoroughfare.

The owners also run a speakeasy which is just across the street. As there was a slight language barrier, I can't tell you its name or when it is open, I guess that is what a speakeasy is all about though now isn't it?

In Prague we had three great cocktail adventures. The first, Bar & Books, is an intimate lounge, dimly lit and just off the main square. We were happy to snag a small table with a window bench and stools.

Bar & Books started in New York and has a few locations around the world. The cocktails were quite good, I especially enjoyed my DYI Side Car, but the bar is known as a cigar bar so those affected by smoke be forwarned.

Just off to the side of Old Town Square is Black Angel's, an extremely cool place that unfortunately does not allow photos. After descending to the basement, we were seated in a small alcove space, lit mainly by the glow of the huge tropical fish tank along the wall. The drink menu was extensive and we all happily had a couple of rounds. The presentation on my Manhattan was especially creative, with the drink being kept cold in an antique mini milk bottle, chilled in a little ice bin with the glass and garnishes on a silver platter, ready for me to help myself.

Of course I stole a photo or two!

Prague's Hemingway Bar was another great find. We sat upstairs where there were big booths, perfect for our group of 6, but the 2-story lounge has bars on both levels. Obviously rum is the spirit of choice here but even gin based drinks got high marks.

We also stopped in at the Absintherie, part bar part Absinthe museum. Although they offered many cocktails (absinthe mule anyone?) made with the green fairy, we chose two very high end products off their list of over 50 and simply had them louched.

The bar is full of old advertisements, paraphernalia, and of course shelves of product, some very very good and some just gross - absinthe with a scorpion in the bottle!

More than cocktails, Central Europeans love their beer and you'll find beer houses all over the cities. In Vienna we had a few rounds, paired with some snacks, in the
old town at Gösser Bierklinik. The pub felt subterranean and medieval, lots of folks toasting with the house ales and enjoying rollicking conversations. It was also pretty smoky in a few designated areas since smoking is still allowed in this part of Europe.

Prague is no stranger to beer halls of course, and we went to one of the best known ones for dinner one evening. Golden Tiger has been around forever and attracts locals and tourists alike.

We crowded into a shared picnic style table and immediately beers appeared in front of us. We learned quickly that if you didn't cover your glass with a coaster beer would be delivered each time you got near the bottom of your current pint. There were no menus, the beer served was Tiger, and the waiter just kept adding tally marks to our check similar to how they do it at a dim sum restaurant.

Dinner was basic pub fare, hearty enough to help soak up all that beer. The only people not having a great time were the tourists who showed up 5 minutes after the kitchen had closed.

Kedves egeszsegere! Na zdravie! Prosit! Na zdraví! Cheers!


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

The Bull's Blood of Eger

For our last day in Hungary I had arranged a private trip out to the Eger wine region for Dayne, Brian, Anne and I thru Taste Hungary. Carolyn Bánfalvi, who is one of the founders, could not have been more helpful and arranged a very nice day trip for us, an especially tricky task as many of the wineries were still closed for the holidays and she herself was going to be out of town.

Our guide Dora arrived with a mini-van early in the morning. As we drove, she explained the area and the wines that we would be tasting. Eger is know for it's Bikaver or Bull's Blood wine which is a blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch), and Cabernet Sauvignon. Over the years the wine has gotten a bit of a bad rap from communist efforts to dumb down quality resulting in a cheap wine. Now the winemakers of Eger (only the wine from this area can be called Bull's Blood) are focused on making quality wines and reshaping their history and reputation.

I'd like to tell you all about how pretty the drive through the Hungarian countryside was, but the fog was so thick we couldn't even tell if there were hills, trees, or towns outside. After a 2-hour drive east we reached our first stop in the town of Egerszalok, St Andrea, which is regarded as one of the best wineries in the region. This winery is just 10 years old and the wine maker here is one of only two in Hungary with a PhD in winemaking. We had a private tour through the cellars and then sat down for a tasting of their 8 current releases, starting with a very nice rose. The winery was open only to us and it was very informative, delicious and fun!

After purchasing a few bottles we loaded back in the mini-van and headed to Eger for lunch at Imola Wine Restaurant, which is the best restaurant in the town and constantly rated in the country's top lists. If you are in the area and don't have time for a lot of proper wine tastings, this is a great spot as their wine list is very impressive. They do modern adaptations of traditional Hungarian food.

After lunch we had just a short amount of time to walk through the quaint town. Along the cobblestones you'll find a few cute shops selling epicurean items, some tasting rooms offering wine, a handful of cafes, a pretty central square and various monuments as Eger has a long history of battles, sieges and rulers.

 

Our next stop, just a short drive away, was Nimrod Kovacs, named for the owner who spent a fair amount of time living in the US and is a partner in Starry Night Winery in California. Again we started with a private tour of the cellars, explanations on their wine making process and the effect on aging that the strange moss that grows on the walls, has on their wines.  The area that the winery is located in is one of the oldest neighborhoods consisting entirely of cellars in the area. It's quite interesting and again points to the long history of wine making in the region.

They had planned to have us taste in the caves but there was a strange and unpleasant odor that they hadn't been able to find the cause of, so we crammed in the owners office. We tasted through 6 of their current releases and although all good, I wasn't as fond of these as I was the St Andrea. 

Back in the van, we were off to our last stop of the day, the Valley of the Beautiful Women, just on the outskirts of Eger. This neighborhood is filled with dozens of wine cellars all lined up together, making it quite a tourist draw. Because of that there are a lot of "cheap and cheerful" wines being made but Taste Hungary had arranged for us to try the wines of Hagymasi Cellar at #19 which although still simple and inexpensive, was also well made and interesting. The real draw here is the area, all the wineries have these great caves built into the side of the hills, and it's a fun place to go with your friends for wine drinking. 

It was such a nice day of wine tasting, completely stress free thanks to the thoughtful itinerary provided for us along with our great guide Dora. We snoozed in the van on the dark drive home, still unsure of what the country side looks like!

Upon returning to Budapest and saying goodbye to Brian and Anne, Dayne and I had a light meal at the really excellent Borkonyha Winekitchen. Unfortunately neither of us were that hungry but the small dishes we had were excellent and I'd recommend making reservations for this gem.

The next morning we packed up and checked out of our lovely hotel. Next stop BratislavaThe next morning we packed up and checked out of our lovely hotel. Next stop Bratislava!

 

All pictures from our wine tasting day are here.

Christmas in Budapest

After our really nice day of sightseeing Brian, Anne, Dayne and I were excited for our Christmas Eve dinner. We had booked at the 1 star Michelin Onyx Restaurant as they were putting on a special multi-coursed meal complete with wine pairings, many of them Hungarian.

The restaurant was absolutely beautiful. I wish I could adequately describe the richness of the wallpaper, decor, table settings, purse stools and chairs. Especially the chairs! Anne and I were seated in these massive black thrones, we felt like queens. It was a fantastic evening, starting off with glasses of Billecart Salmon Champagne, then being catered to by men in white linen gloves through seven courses of gorgeous dishes.  Some, like the goose liver torte with coffee gelee paired with a demi sec Tokaj, really were amazing.

Another stand out was the venison filet with truffle jus (even though it also had beets!)

We all rolled out full, happy and feeling festive! I'd absolutely recommend the restaurant to anyone looking for a Michelin experience in Budapest.

Dayne and I slept in on Christmas day and had a long lunch at the delicious and historical Central Cafe. The huge coffee shop attracts tourists and locals alike. They have delicious goulash and a drool worthy pastry case. We experienced it all.

 

After a relaxing walk around town to burn off some of that torte we headed back to our hotel to get ready for our Christmas night out. We were attending a chamber concert and then having dinner on a river cruise. 

The concert took place in the Danube Palace which was very old, small and a bit tatty (not the palace you see above, it was in one of the buildings to the side). But the music was great, the musicians were really having a good time and we loved putting titles to the music we'd heard for so long. Vivladi, Brahms, Strauss and Erkel were just some of the composers represented. 

After the concert we headed to the river and boarded one of the cruise boats. This is much more of a typical tourist thing than we normally do, but being Christmas and not having many choices we were looking forward to seeing all the magnificent buildings along the waterfront lit up. They were serving dinner also, which we weren't expecting much from, but it ended up being better than average. The views from the outside deck of the boat were just as incredible as we had hoped. It was a very twinkly, tasty and musical Christmas!

To wrap up our Christmas, the next day we had another wonderful lunch, this time at the Gerloczy Cafe. The cafe sits in a charming little square and is known for their delicious fresh baked bread, all warm right from the oven. Paired with the wild boar soup and a cucumber, sour cream salad, it was just enough to tie us over so we could spend the day soaking at the famed Szechenyi Bath House.

We arrived by metro, the tiny subway cars and stations seem hardly big enough for the population of the city. It was mid day and still light out as we entered the main door. We had read all the ins and outs about bath culture in Hungry and rented a shared changing room/locker in the coed area. It was almost impossible for us both to change out of our bulky jeans and sweaters and into swimsuits in the tiny compartment. Giggling we quickly went out and stepped into the first warm pool we saw. It was probably 34F outside! This pool was warm, not hot, and in the very center of it the water was an "adventure pool" moving in a fast circle, taking shrieking bathers with it as it flowed round and round. It was so fun! It's hard to describe but we took a "ride" in this over and over again.

Szechenyl has a total of 15 pools, some small, super hot baths, others large lap pools. Only 3 are outside and that is where we chose to stay. As the day turned to dusk and a slight drizzle fell, the glow from the pool lights and the steam rising all around seemed magical. We moved to a much hotter pool and just bobbed around soaking for hours.

Do not miss a trip to the baths while in Budapest! Take your own towel from your hotel, some flip flops and your suit. It's a relaxing and super enjoyable way to see how the locals live :)

We wrapped up our day with really amazing drinks at the Boutiq Bar, chatting with the bartender Akos who just happened to have spent some time living in north Seattle. Fantastic cocktails and a really interesting space (Anne & Brian have you finally gone?). And then dinner at the Callas Cafe which was good if you are in the area, but maybe a tad expensive.

We turned in a bit early as we had a full day coming up exploring the wine countryWe turned in a bit early as we had a full day coming up exploring the wine country!

All photos here!

See the Sites in Budapest

Budapest is a completely regal city. Split by the Danube River, each side still feels as different as when they were two individual cities. Buda, to the west, is built up on the hill, where the royal palace dominates. Pest, on the east banks is flat and houses the Parliament buildings as well as the Jewish Quarter.

Being lucky to have friends living in the city, we had our built in tour guides, and met up on our first morning to start our day of sightseeing.

Stop number one was the Great Market. A huge indoor building, reminiscent of a train station in size, housing hundreds of vendors. Besides paprika, Hungary is well known for their goose liver pâté and foie gras, staggering selections of cured sausage, including horse, pickled vegetables & cabbage, and Tokaji wine. All of this and other things, like communist era souvenirs, live fish, and kitchen wares, can be found in the market. It was the perfect place for this particular foodie and a great stop for stocking up on delicious souvenirs. The morning we visited the market was the last day it would be open for a few days because of the Christmas holiday, I was so glad not to miss it!

Our plans to warm up at one of the many cafes that litter the city after our shopping, were deterred by it being Christmas Eve, so Brian & Anne invited us over again for a snack and a taste of the varying flavors of Palinka that they have amassed. Palinka is the country's special brandy flavored with various herbs, berries, fruits and is taken as an aperitif or a digestif. Or just in the middle of the day as we did.

Warmed up and fortified we walked down to the river banks and caught one of the many trams that crisscross the city. The trams, metros and busses go just about everywhere you need to go and even on holiday hours they run frequently.

We hopped off the tram near the famous Chain Bridge and walked across. The are eight bridges connecting the two sides of the city but the Chain Bridge is the most photographed and well known. It is fantastic to look at day or night. And when you get across you are at the base of Castle Hill.

It's a short but semi-steep walk up to the castle but I don't really know too much about it since there is a funicular that goes to the top (cue funicular song here...). And since neither Anne or Brian had taken it before we climbed aboard one of the cars and took in the pretty, yet foggy views of the river and Pest.

Walking around the grounds of the castle is really a must do. There are just breathtaking views in every direction. During the holidays there was also a little stand selling hot chocolate, gluwein and hotdogs. I'm sure you can guess what I ordered vs. what Dayne ordered.
We continued our way from the castle to the hilltop neighborhood by St. Matthews church. Sadly it was already closed in preparation of Christmas Eve services but again, the views from the grounds with the fog laying along the river, was beautiful.

From the church we hopped a bus which took us down the hill and across the river, back to Pest. We got off near the Jewish Quarter and walked to the Carl Lutz Memorial, so interesting and quite moving, we were literally the only people on the streets. We hoped to go into the synagogue and also get a little closer to the beautiful Tree of Life memorial, but again it was locked up tight. We stopped in for hot drinks at the only open cafe, the before making our way back home to get ready for an extravagant Christmas Eve dinner. Even the famed Ruin Bar was already shut for the holidays.

I've learned to not really mind this lack of open business, business. For me it's really a special thing to see a city so quiet and serene. I feel like I'm getting a secret peak at something most tourists don't see.
A few days latter Dayne and I went back up to Castle Hill on our own and went to the National Gallery, housed in the castle. What a different collection of art this is! The Hungarians haven't had such an easy time of it over the years and as art does, that is reflected here. Many areas of the museum also feel very 70's, communist, with dingy white paint and fluorescent lights in areas. Fluorescent lights in a museum! An eye opener for sure.

We also took a nice walk along the Parliament buildings and found another very moving memorial, called Shoes on the Danube.
 

You really can't miss the amazing architecture of Budapest whether you are strolling, bussing or taking the tram. When I was researching the city I was a bit confused that the "things to do" weren't generally things with admission prices and operating times. But I see now that it is a city of true sites; neighborhood squares, romantic bridges, regal buildings and historic areas. No admission fee required.

Budapest photos here

Christmas Market...Budapest

We left Paris on a quick EasyJet flight to Budapest Hungary where we would spend the next 5 nights. Upon landing it was snowing, we were hoping we would have a white Christmas but unfortunately this was the only active snow we would see on the entire trip. We grabbed a cab and were soon checking into the absolutely lovely Hotel Palazzo Zichy. The hotel was modern but built into an old building and we had a great room with a view of the gorgeous church and cute square across the street. It's in a great location too, being very near the Jewish Quarter, blocks from a main trolly line and only a 10 minute walk from our friends Anne & Brian's apartment.

After unpacking we bundled up and made our way to their place for a little Budapest welcoming of Hungarian sparkling wine, chocolate, salami & a delicious paprika cheese. Honestly Dayne hadn't met Anne or Brian before, and I had only met them once via other common friends, but that is one of the many perks of traveling IMHO. You get to meet and become friends with people all over the world who are like minded about traveling.

It was the last night of the Christmas market so after our aperos we all headed down to the main square for some dinner and holiday cheer. There were beautiful lights strung across most of the streets along the way and then at the square a light display was being shown on the side of one of the buildings. There were row upon row of little cabins where local artists showed their wares. And of course there was food. A few huge counters were set up, pretty with hanging lights and smelling of roasted meats and mulled wine. Anne pointed out various things that she knew we'd be interested in and we set to ordering. Sausages, potatoes, pork knuckles, stuffed cabbage, etc.

The snow had turned to drizzle but Brian found a picnic table under an umbrella and we had our first of many delicious meals in Budapest.

Hot wines and hot chocolates in hand we walked our dinner off (or one bite of pork knuckle maybe) by strolling around the market. There were many people out shopping, eating, drinking and listening to the live music. It was absolutely lovely.

Brian and Anne detoured us down a little street and we had our first glimpse of the Danube and its stunning waterfront. I couldn't wait to do more sightseeing the next day!

And then we made our way back, walking through connecting streets where the market continued with vendors, food stalls, even a little pop up bar with a fireplace you could enjoy a drink by, in the middle of the sidewalk.

It was exactly the way I had imagined our first night in Budapest. If you get a chance to go during the Christmas market I highly recommend it.

Budapest photos