The finale of our New Zealand trip was spending a couple of days out in Te Anau, the small town on the shores of the huge lake by the same name. This town is also known as the gateway to Fiordland & Milford Sound. We were all really looking forward to, and hoping for, some incredible scenery (spoiler alert, we got it).
It's a 2+ hour drive from Queenstown so we decided to spend the morning in nearby Arrowtown, an old mining town now known for wine shops and meat pies.
It's very cute, and very small, and there are a lot of tourists. We wandered around a bit before going to the bakery and ordering meat pies for lunch. They've got some outdoor tables and chairs so it's easy to find seats while you eat. The pies were good, I prefer a darker crust than they do but that's just me.
We spent some time shopping the boutiques and then all met back up at The Winery to taste a few wines. It's a great shop as they have dispensers so you can pour your own and choose the size. There is one like this in Seattle now but when I was here, it was the first I had seen.
Time to hit the road! It is really beautiful rugged country driving south along Lake Wakatipu. We passed lots of deer and lamb ranches and some very small towns, but that was about it!
In Te Anau we all had rooms at Distinction Hotel, which sits right across from the lake with fantastic views. The rooms are older but very large and everything was clean. And lucky for us the weather was warm and sunny. We grabbed a picnic table outside on the lawn, played some games, drank some drinks, and took in this amazing sunset.
The next morning we headed out to Milford Sound with Southern Discoveries. They had a bus that picked us up & dropped us off right in Te Anau. It's a long day out and back so it was really nice that neither Forest or I had to drive and we could all just sit and enjoy the amazing scenery.
We made a few stops on the way out, some were quick, others involved a little walk, all were beautiful. Eglinton Valley looked like a scene straight out of Switzerland, Mirror Lakes lived up to their name by mirroring the mountains behind in their clear water, at Monkey Creek we not only had incredible mountain views but we saw a Kea; a large curious parrot from the area that are pretty funny to watch.
The Milford Sound Highway is a stunning & winding drive. We went up through a couple of mountain areas, passed countless waterfalls and dense forests before arriving at the Homer Tunnel which is the only land access through the Darran Mountains to Milford Sound. It's a single lane road so there are line ups on either end. And it's dark inside! And steep (1:10 gradient or 10% slope). And 3100 feet in elevation. Once out of the tunnel the road was a series of switchbacks all the way to the sound.
No photos can do justice to how beautiful Milford Sound is. We were on the very comfortable Spirit of Milford for a 2-hour cruise down one side of the Sound to the Tasman Sea and then back up the other side. It was absolutely stunning! So many waterfalls (and the boat got close enough that we got wet!), amazing sheer cliffs, seals sunning themselves on rocks, and even dolphins!
We were provided a box lunch and there was a bar where you could buy soda or wine. Our cruise also stopped at the Underwater Observatory which is a floating discovery center with underwater windows giving you a view of sea life, coral, etc. Like an aquarium only in the wild. It was really cool!
The entire day was fantastic! And the weather was just perfect!
We had a long drive back and the bus didn't stop in order to get to Te Anau before dark. Back at the hotel we headed outside to our picnic table again with drinks, smoked salmon from our gourmet shopping, games, and pizza ordered from the local spot. And we were treated to another amazing sunset.
Before leaving the next day we all went on a great walk around part of the lake to the bird sanctuary and then back into town for a local pie from Miles Better Pies. And then we were on the road back to Queenstown to catch our flight, with a quick stop on the Garston Highway for more amazing views.
The 19th annual NYE trip and it was fantastic.
And the last of an era as my BFF Forest passed away on Nov 28, 2024. There will be other NYE trips but there will never be others like the ones her and I spent 20 years planning and traveling. And there will never be another BFF like Forest. You are missed daily Xx
Flights thru the Middle East usually have either some crazy long layover or your connecting flight will leave at a ridiculously early time in the morning when only ravers should still be up! Both of these were my situation on my way from Seattle to the Seychelles.
Also it's pronounced "cut-ter" :)
On my first Qatar Airways flight I had transferred both Amex and Citi points to book their business Qsuite product. These suites are found on all A350-1000 and some 777s; luckily my 777 had been retrofitted (on the booking page it will say if the plane has Qsuites). This is basically First Class for business class pricing! You have your own suite with privacy door, pajamas & slippers, amenity kit with Diptyque product (!), big storage bin, adjustable armrest, lie-flat bed with turndown service, mattress, pillows & duvet. Each door also has a do-not-disturb sign you can activate.
At SEA I spent some time in the Centurion Lounge before I made my way to the British Air Lounge, which is who Qatar is partnered with. This is a super basic lounge for business class but it was in the S satellite so it was much closer to my gate.
The solo window suites had all been chosen when I booked so I had one of the aisle suites. If I would have been traveling with others these suites in the 1-2-1 config can convert to a double bed or even a quad suite!
I had 14 ½ hours of flight time to Doha and every minute of it was lovely! The service on QA is top notch, the food and beverage selections were much better than most, and the bed was very comfy.
After champagne (of course) I had a martini, which was probably the only bump in the road as it was not cold enough. First world...But my amuse bouche, duck & citrus salad, roast salmon with caviar, and ice cream sundae were all excellent! And cognac (of course)!
We had left Seattle at 5pm on Monday and landed in Doha at 5:30pm on Tues! After a delicious espresso before deplaning, I went thru a very quick security and then found myself in the center of Hamad Airport.
I will admit that the title of this post is a bit misleading as I actually had two 9+ hour layovers, apologies! I'll break them up for you here.
Hamad Airport (DOH) has been voted Best Airport in the World (yes, there is such an award!) for the last 3-years, and after spending A LOT of time there, I would have to agree!
On this ground level there are many, many, many choices for shopping, dining, and even art. "Lamp Bear" by the Swiss artist Urs Fischer, sits in the middle of the airport's grand foyer and is just 1 of 20 permanent art pieces you can peruse.
But I was headed to the Al Mourjan Business Lounge which is open to First and Business class passengers. As I made my way up the escalators I noticed how quiet the airport was. And not because it wasn't busy, as it was! Come to find out they have a policy of silence; no announcements are made except the Call to Prayer. It was very calming!
Al Mourjan in the south terminal is the largest lounge I've ever been in! It's over 2 ½ acres! I only had time for a short stroll around, while sipping on Champagne, and checking my carry on into a locker, but I'd be coming back later that night and planned to have a late dinner at their amazing restaurant! For now I was off to the meeting point for my 3-hour Doha city tour.
7 hours left...
After checking in to the Discover Qatar desk at the airport, we were escorted thru security, boarded a bus, and away we went to tour Doha by night. It's $31 and you need to have a 6 hour or more layover and book at least 48 hours before arriving. You also need to make sure you have your passport and the boarding pass from your arrival flight.
Our first stop was at the Corniche where we got a chance to get out and take in the gorgeous views of the city's skyline. I.M. Pei's beautiful Museum of Islamic Art is also here.
Back on the bus we headed to the Katara Cultural Village, a super interesting complex with theaters, exhibit halls, two mosques, and an amphitheater which was stunning!
As we continued our walk around we came to a gorgeous outdoor shopping center with an outpost of Paris' Galeries Lafayette!
This outdoor mall is beautiful, but more than that it is air-conditioned! The outside is air-conditioned! I have never heard of that! Crazy! And cool!
Driving to the Souq Waqif we passed by an amazing assortment of skyscrapers and sculpture all lit up throughout the city. It's quite beautiful and our guide did a great job of pointing out interesting sites, telling us more about the culture, and warning us about the temperatures in the summer (108F!) when they change the tour to reduce time spent outside.
People have inhabited the land of Qatar for over 50,000 years; it would have been Mesopotamia at that time. For centuries many, many tribes have controlled the land here. In 1916 Qatar came under protection of the British and in 1940 oil was discovered for the first time. In 1968 Britain ended its protection with eight Arab countries, Qatar being one of them, and those countries created the United Arab Emirates. Qatar then declared independence in 1971.
Doha was just a settlement in the 1820's and was destroyed in a war in 1867. It was rebuilt and named the capital when Qatar declared their independence. During the 70's the city razed all the old neighborhoods, rebuilding to attract international business.
Although Souq Waqif was originally build over a century ago it was completely renovated in 2006 after being destroyed by fire in 2003. It's still a fun market to stroll through, but it's more of a tourist destination now vs. a working market. There are lots of souvenirs (that can be purchased with a card or tap) and lots of food (much which you might want a bit of cash for).
We were given time on our own to explore the market and then invited to meet back up if we wanted to go see the Royal Camels. Everyday at 8am and 4pm the Palace guards and the camels parade on the grounds of the governmental palace. As it was almost 10pm we just saw them hanging out in their stables.
On the way back to the bus we walked through the Falcon Souk. It was closed for the evening but our guide explained the importance of falcons to the Qatari. Originally, 5000 years ago, falcons were kept and trained to hunt by Bedouin tribes. These birds are also the national bird of Qatar. Over time they became a symbol for courage and the sport of falconry is still an important cultural practice.
We were shown a falcon-sitting shop, where locals can leave their falcons when they are on vacation, and also the falcon hospital, one of the largest in the Middle East, and funded by the government.
We were dropped back off at the airport around 11pm and were escorted through security; quick and easy! I thought this was a very enjoyable tour and would probably be even better in the daytime when you can see more. But at least it was cooler in the evening!
4 hours left...
Back in the Al Mourjan Lounge South, this time I took a seat upstairs in the restaurant. It's a buffet but oh what a buffet it is! There was the traditional carving station, made-to-order sushi and salad bars, a huge assortment of traditional dishes from around the world in miniature making it easier to sample multiple! There were wine and cocktail menus as well as a lot of N/A options.
I ordered a martini, had a few mini dishes off the buffet, and then hit the pastry buffet to try some interesting and unfamiliar desserts.
The restaurant & the food options were very nice! I left down the grand glass staircase and checked out a few of the other areas like the nap spaces and the café that serves more casual food (I didn't try it except to get a glass of champagne).
2.5 hours left...
Time to leave this lounge and go in search of Qatar's brand new lounge, the Al Mourjan Garden Lounge. To get here you can walk or take the tram to the airport's northern expansion area. I chose to walk since I had the time and wanted to check out the amazing selection of retailers that are in the airport such as Harrod's, Louis Vuitton, Chloe, Tiffany's, etc. There are also gold markets, caviar shops, pharmacies, and duty free. From Lamp Bear you walk in the direction of the C, D, and E gates.
Once I got to the expansion terminat I decided to walk thru The Orchard, DOH's indoor tropical garden which is open to everyone. Ok, I actually went too far and ended up here but it's stunning! There are lots of paths winding through, a whole other section of retailers, a Dior Spa, areas where you can relax on a bench or even in the grass! All under a curvy glass roof; the entire (huge) space is beautiful.
Behind the Louis Vuitton store is where I found the lounge entrance. I was very surprised at how bare bones the check in area was; just a set of elevators with hostess desks in front of them. I really wasn't sure if I was in the right place!
Up on the 2nd floor I exited to the massive lounge; very minimal design with tons of space and high ceilings. And of course it's all open to the Orchard below! I went to the right where there were a few bars, self-service buffets, sit-down restaurants, etc. The lounge is open 24/7 (as are all the shops in the airport!) which is great for these late night/early morning departures.
This lounge just opened in April in 2023 so when I was there everything was still in amazing shape. There are lockers for storage, private nap rooms with 1 or 2 lounge chairs, shower rooms stocked with a Diptyque products, and lots and lots and lots of seating!
There's also a Louis Vuitton Lounge inside The Garden Lounge! That's a bit uber I'd say but it looked lovely. From what I was told, anyone who has access to The Garden can enter the LV lounge (Business and First Class passengers) but you pay for drinks and food here.
I really enjoyed The Garden. I had a couple of drinks and some bougie potato chips, took in the great views of the tropical gardens below, never felt crowded, and had excellent service.
15 minutes left...
It was about a 15 minute walk to my gate for my flight to Seychelles and when I arrived they were asking business class passengers to board a bus to the plane. But this wasn't just any bus! It was a business class bus with posh red leather seats; just 12 of them!
It was 2am when I got onboard and I was settled into my very comfy lie-flat seat (no suite), waiting for take off with a glass of champagne and ready for a nap. But I felt that I did a lot in my 9+ hours in Doha.
A week later, returning from Seychelles, I was back in Doha Hamad Airport landing at 11pm with another 9+ hour layover.
This time I decided to sleep! I didn't have to collect my luggage so it was really quick for me to get to the Uber stand where had a car take me to the Holiday Inn.
6 hours left...
I used points for a free room, was there in about 20 minutes for 40 QAD, and was asleep in a big king bed by midnight.
2 hours left...
In the morning the front desk got me a taxi which only cost 28 QAD (& still took just 20 mins). My flight was at 8am so I got there about 6am and it was very quick going thru TSA. I was back in The Garden Lounge having breakfast watching the glass roof light up with the morning sun.
15 minutes left...
Again, it was about a 15 minute walk to my gate where I boarded my (just under 15 hour!) flight for Seattle. Perfect timing!
I really think this is the most impressive airport I have been too! There is also a hotel right inside (but I love using my points) and if you wanted to spend some time shopping then that is going to eat up a lot of your time! I love that everything is open 24 hours!
What have you done during your long layover in Hamad Airport?
When two of my friends, who live far away in Australia, and I decided to do a trip to India we were overwhelmed by the options for itineraries. India is quite a large country, about 1/3 of the size of the US, and each state has their own unique cultures. But perhaps the most famous of India's states is Rajasthan; it is here where there is an abundance of historical forts, palaces, and heritage sites. Rajasthan is also home to the Golden Triangle; a tourist hit list of the cities of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur.
In our research we came across The Palace on Wheels, a luxury train that travels throughout Rajasthan over 8 days and provides its guests with tours in each city. The train has been in operation since 1982 and the coaches were originally created for the rulers of Rajasthan.
We were so excited! Here is a recap of our trip and if traveling like a royal through India sounds like something you want to do there is a special offer from Palace on Wheels at the end of this post!
We all met up in Delhi and were picked up at our hotel and taken to the station for boarding. Immediately, we were treated like royalty. After a ceremony on the platform, we were welcomed on board by our butler Sohan and his assistant, and shown to our rooms where our bags were waiting. My room was beautiful and the bathroom much larger than I had expected!
Once I was settled and unpacked, Sohan offered me a tour around the train. We went past some of the other rooms and into the first dining car, which is absolutely stunning! Pastel shades of blue and intricate mirror work resembling that at the Amber Fort, which we would see the next day, made for a beautiful setting. Red upholstered couches provided space to enjoy drinks before or after dinner from the car's bar.
We continued on, past the kitchen where teams of chefs were preparing amazing smelling things, to the next dining car which is adorned in gold hues making it feel very regal. At the rear of the car is another bar and more couches, these with tufted seats and throne looking backrests.
That first evening we were all invited for drinks and appetizers and then were greeted by Bhawani, the Director of Sales and Bhagat Singh Lohagarh, Director of The Palace on Wheels. Each of us were introduced and gifted traditional scarves for women and turbans for the men.
The train accommodates 104 people but we were just 16! A few days later 16 more, who were on a Nat Geo tour, joined also. I think that because our group was a bit smaller we probably had a bit more personalized service, which was great.
Each day we had breakfast on the train before disembarking at that day's station. Trays of fresh fruit were passed and then you could order from the breakfast menu; eggs, toast, juice, coffee, etc. It was all very good. One day I was offered an amazing Indian soup with puffy breads. I still have no idea what it was but I loved it so much that the chef offered it on the 2nd to the last day as well.
Sometimes lunch was onboard, other times we ate at places in the towns we were in. It was always included in our tour and always good. Dinners were always onboard and the menu, which changed daily, offered both Western and Indian cuisine. Waiters brought platters of everything on the menu to the table for you to choose, which made it really hard not to overeat! And after the first night we decided that we preferred the Indian food and started asking just for that. Soon the kitchen was sending out thali for us which was great! We drank mainly Indian whisky before dinner or champagne and Indian wines with dinner. I really enjoyed all the food onboard (and all the desserts!!!).
Generally the train traveled during the night to our next destination, and it moved fast! Personally I did find it a bit hard to sleep, as it really rocked from side to side, not everyone felt this way though. Some days we traveled during the day, giving us a chance to just relax and watch the countryside. I absolutely loved this and spent time in my cabin, which had huge windows along one full wall, with my book and the view.
Our first full day was spent in Jaipur and as we stepped off the train we were greeted with musicians, dancers, and a painted up elephant. We were given a tilak (a dot of red dye placed on the forehead, similar to a bindi) and a garland of marigolds to welcome us. In fact this happened at pretty much every station!
My friends had booked one of the two "Super Deluxe" cabins on the train which came with a private car and local guide at each destination. And since we were traveling together I was also the lucky recipient of this perk. The others were transported by very nice buses and also had a dedicated local guide and we all met up at group lunches. Whether in a private car or with the group bus, there were always representatives from the train along, and these guides went out of their way all the time to make sure everyone was taken care of!
We were taken to local places for shopping in each city also. This ranged from gemstones, to rugs, to local artwork, etc. Sometimes it was great, sometimes we were tired and just really were ready to get back to the train. At the end of each excursion we were greeted back at the train with cold refreshing towels and a smile. And sometimes a dance party!
Here's a brief layout of our itinerary:
Day 2: Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, and as its name "The Pink City" hints, most of the buildings are painted pink! It's the largest of the cities (besides Delhi) that we would be visiting. We saw a lot the first day! Highlights included our visit to Albert Hall, Hawa Mahal (a palace with an incredible number of windows for the ladies to look out on the street below), the almost 300 year-old observatory, City Palace, and the incredible Amber Fort.
Day 3: We woke up in Sawai Madhopur, which is home to Ranthambore National Park, where we did a jeep safari and saw a tiger in the wild! Amazing as there are only approximately 88 tigers in the park! We saw lots of other animals on the safari as well, like monkeys, crocodiles, and deer. Our train traveled another 5 hours during the day and we arrived in Chittorgarh in the early evening in order to tour the massive Chittorgarh Fort. The many buildings of the fort were stunning at sunset, and there were more monkeys which were great fun to watch!
Day 4: We woke up in beautiful Udaipur, which sits on multiple man-made lakes. Highlights included a visit to Saheliyon-ki-Bari, lush gardens with gorgeous pools and stunning fountains, that were specifically for the royal women of the nearby palace. Also touring the incredible City Palace, including the Crystal Room, and then a boat ride out to Jagmandir Island for lunch. That evening there was quite the karaoke/dance party onboard the train!
Day 5: Our train traveled for about 16 hours and after breakfast we arrived in Jaisalmer. The Golden City, as it is known, is in the Thar Desert. We spent the morning at Gadsisar Lake and then walked up and toured through Jaisalmer Fort. Our afternoon was spent relaxing onboard before heading out to the desert in the late afternoon for a camel ride on the sand dunes at sunset! The train's kitchen team also came out and served us dinner under the stars while local entertainers sang and danced. It was quite an evening!
Day 6: The city of Jodhpur is known for a few things; it's called the Blue City as many buildings are painted blue, jodhpur pants are an actual style of pant from the city, and the rare breed of horse called Marwari is from here. Highlights of our day included a tour of Jaswant Thada, which is the cremation ground for the royal Rajput family of Marwar and is stunning, a tour of Mehrangarh Fort, standing regally about 400 feet above the city, and the luxurious Umaid Bhawan Palace, which is one of the world's largest private residence as well as a 5-star hotel!
Day 7: Most of the train rose early in Bharatpur and went on an excursion at a bird sanctuary, but 6am doesn't work for me so I slept in. My friend had a work call she needed to be on so afterwards we met everyone at the Director of The Palace on Wheels palace for breakfast! That was quite a treat and is not always on the itinerary! Then we were back on the train for a bit until we arrived at Agra. We toured Agra Fort before having lunch with everyone at a lovely 5-star hotel. And then we were off to the Taj Mahal! Words can not describe the beauty of this incredible site. We were lucky to be there for sunset as well- icing on the cake! Back onboard for our last night there was more karaoke as well as little gifts handed out by Director Bhagat Singh Lohagarh.
Day 8: We were so sad to leave our Palace on Wheels in Delhi but we weren't quite done just yet. We had arranged for our private ½ day tour to start right when we disembarked (this tour was included in our booking). You'd think we would be "forted-out" but our visit to the Red Fort was excellent and as it was quite early in the morning we were some of the only one's there. We then went on an absolutely awesome rickshaw ride through the Chandni Chowk area, stopping to shop for spices and tea, and whizzing through incredibly narrow lanes. Our last stop was Humayun's Tomb, who was the great-grandfather of Shah Jahan who built the Taj Mahal. Full circle!
I still can't believe all the amazing things we saw; India is incredibly beautiful and has a complex and rich history. Everywhere we went felt very safe and people were so friendly! Many times I was approached by young school girls who were very curious about where I was from; it was super cute.
As we know, India also has areas of extreme poverty and pollution and the class system still exists. With so many people, traffic, smells and sounds, it's a full assault of the senses and it spurred a lot of interesting conversations between my friends and I. India is truly not like anywhere I've been before and I'd love to go back and explore other parts of the country.
Touring with Palace on Wheels was just wonderful and I would highly recommend them! The staff goes above and beyond to make sure your experience is excellent; they are all so incredibly kind, friendly, and hard working. This was truly a once in a lifetime opportunity and my friends and I had the best time.
As this is a luxury train (basically The Orient Express of India) it's not an inexpensive excursion. However until April 2025 the fantastic folks at Palace on Wheels are offering a 25% discount on the tour when you book directly thru them and mention Luggage Tag or my name!
Email Bhawani for upcoming dates and pricing at palaceonwheels.rtdc@rajasthan.gov.in (and tell him Wendy says hi!).
You can also see some great videos and photos on their Instagram here!
