Drink It In; Central Europe

Central Europe may not be first on everyone's list with regard to cocktails but I had some great drinks in some very comfortable settings when we visited in December of 2013.

Strangely Bratislava has quite a number of places to get a finely mixed drink, we only stopped in at one but arguably it is one of the best.  Budapest, while a much larger city, is known more for its Ruin Bars but I found lovely cocktails elsewhere.

Many places were closed for the holidays when we visited Vienna so we only got out to one proper cocktail bar. Bar Halbestadt is a bit out of the way but the drinks are good and the owners are incredibly friendly. It's a funny little space with tiny tables, glowing soft red light, and glass walls looking out to the busy thoroughfare.

The owners also run a speakeasy which is just across the street. As there was a slight language barrier, I can't tell you its name or when it is open, I guess that is what a speakeasy is all about though now isn't it?

In Prague we had three great cocktail adventures. The first, Bar & Books, is an intimate lounge, dimly lit and just off the main square. We were happy to snag a small table with a window bench and stools.

Bar & Books started in New York and has a few locations around the world. The cocktails were quite good, I especially enjoyed my DYI Side Car, but the bar is known as a cigar bar so those affected by smoke be forwarned.

Just off to the side of Old Town Square is Black Angel's, an extremely cool place that unfortunately does not allow photos. After descending to the basement, we were seated in a small alcove space, lit mainly by the glow of the huge tropical fish tank along the wall. The drink menu was extensive and we all happily had a couple of rounds. The presentation on my Manhattan was especially creative, with the drink being kept cold in an antique mini milk bottle, chilled in a little ice bin with the glass and garnishes on a silver platter, ready for me to help myself.

Of course I stole a photo or two!

Prague's Hemingway Bar was another great find. We sat upstairs where there were big booths, perfect for our group of 6, but the 2-story lounge has bars on both levels. Obviously rum is the spirit of choice here but even gin based drinks got high marks.

We also stopped in at the Absintherie, part bar part Absinthe museum. Although they offered many cocktails (absinthe mule anyone?) made with the green fairy, we chose two very high end products off their list of over 50 and simply had them louched.

The bar is full of old advertisements, paraphernalia, and of course shelves of product, some very very good and some just gross - absinthe with a scorpion in the bottle!

More than cocktails, Central Europeans love their beer and you'll find beer houses all over the cities. In Vienna we had a few rounds, paired with some snacks, in the
old town at Gösser Bierklinik. The pub felt subterranean and medieval, lots of folks toasting with the house ales and enjoying rollicking conversations. It was also pretty smoky in a few designated areas since smoking is still allowed in this part of Europe.

Prague is no stranger to beer halls of course, and we went to one of the best known ones for dinner one evening. Golden Tiger has been around forever and attracts locals and tourists alike.

We crowded into a shared picnic style table and immediately beers appeared in front of us. We learned quickly that if you didn't cover your glass with a coaster beer would be delivered each time you got near the bottom of your current pint. There were no menus, the beer served was Tiger, and the waiter just kept adding tally marks to our check similar to how they do it at a dim sum restaurant.

Dinner was basic pub fare, hearty enough to help soak up all that beer. The only people not having a great time were the tourists who showed up 5 minutes after the kitchen had closed.

Kedves egeszsegere! Na zdravie! Prosit! Na zdraví! Cheers!


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

24 Hours... Bratislava, Slovakia

We left Budapest for Bratislava by train, we had purchased a first class cabin that we had all to ourselves. It was a nice ride, past pretty hills half hidden by mist and along the Danube River. We had wanted to take a boat but they don't run throughout the winter.

We grabbed a taxi from the train station and headed to our hotel, Marrol's. I think we got taken a bit as our fare was 18E and the town is pretty small. Our hotel however, was absolutely great! They greeted us with a glass of bubbles and then showed us to our cute room which had a very comfy bed, free wifi, complementary mini bar and breakfast. Absolutely would recommend this hotel if you happen to find yourself in Bratislava.

 

We headed out on foot and made our way to 1.Slovak Pub for a traditional lunch of cheese dumplings with bacon and beer. This was good fuel for our afternoon plans of walking around the town. 

Originally we had thought about spending two nights in Bratislava but I'm glad we cut that to just one. The town, especially the old part, is very pretty but it's easy to do in half a day. 

We started by entering the old walled part and wandered along the cobblestone lined, pedestrian only lanes.  The city has a collection of quirky sculptures that they added to be "less communist" after the Velvet Revolution.

 

Past the square was an outdoor ice rink and the remains of the Christmas markets. We continued on to the site of the former Rybné Square synagogue and the memorial to the 105,000 Slovakian victims of the holocaust. Strangely, the site is next to the town church and next to the main highway which the city of Bratislava chose to erect crazily close to both. 

After walking around the town and square we headed over the bridge to the UFO Observation deck. This gives fantastic views the Danube, the barren areas around the town, the castle, that infamous highway, and Bratislava itself. 

The winter light was so pretty, but it was also crazy cold. The kind that is refreshing and invigorating though- luckily!

We opted not to stop in at the rotating restaurant for over priced cocktails and made our way back across the bridge to the town for cocktails.

At this point is was still early, maybe 4pm, so although we had a few cocktail bars on our list to check out, the only one that was open was Paparazzi Bar. Not to worry, it is also the best. They have an amazing cocktail menu, and one of those funny sculptures-- an over eager "photo journalist"-- is on their corner. 

We left and found ourselves on very quiet streets, most of the restaurants still closed for the holidays. We checked in on a few places but found them to be too "touristy" so we opted for an early dinner back at our hotel, which was ok, and tucked into bed early. Tomorrow we were heading to Vienna!

I have no idea what we would have done with 48 hours... 

All Bratislava photos here.