Friday Harbor, On Saturday and Sunday Too

One of the many nice things about riding the trains around Europe is I have time to catch up on some posts. Other nice things about the trains in Europe... THE TRAINS IN EUROPE!

On a very sunny & beautiful weekend in July Dayne & I left Seattle late in the afternoon and drove north to the Anacortes ferry dock. Securing a place in line for the next ferry (2 hour wait in the summer) we left our car and walked up the hill to where there use to be a restaurant and bar. Closed. Wtf? How are you the only resto/bar in the ferry area and you can't stay in business?

Back to the car and with 2 hours to wait we busted into the Thomas Keller fried chicken I had made & pasta mango salad Dayne had made (well we made them to share with our friends that evening!). Dayne also had a case of booze he was carting up for the festivities so a "trunk tiki drink" was crafted to go with our meal. Seconds were made on board the ferry which we dubbed "The Elwah"

Upon arriving in Friday Harbor we checked into the cute Bird Rock Hotel before meeting our friends at host Mark's fabulous house over looking the Sound. Being the last to arrive to the party we tried our best to catch up!

The next morning Dayne and I enjoyed a very nice breakfast of fresh scones, fruit & yogurt on the patio of the hotel. We then wandered around town, doing a bit of shopping (cute boutiques!), checked out the farmers market & scored some rare(ish) DeLille rose at the grocery store before heading out to Mark's for lunch.

Our friend Wayland had made amazing roasted duck sandwiches with cashew butter & jam (which I've forgotten which kind). Rose was poured, the potluck of cold salads, fried chicken, etc were put out and we sat on the deck enjoying the views. Ahhhhhh.....

Camp counselor Mark had arranged for us to tour the San Juan Distillery in the afternoon (he's good like that) so we loaded in the cars as he and his brother stayed behind- secretly putting the finishing touches on that evenings extravaganza & the raison d'etre of the weekend, THE DINNER PARTY.

SJD tasted us through their ciders and their gins, explaining the uniqueness of their products. We all found something(s) we liked and especially enjoyed the passion and sincerity these guys bring to their products.

We all met back later for Mark's big event. A culinary feast! Mark had been working for days (weeks?) on an amazing menu combining molecular gastronomy, local/in season ingredients & wine from his fantastic cellar. Mark took the dishes inspirations from sources such as "Alinea", "Modernist Cuisine", "Ideas in Food" and his own tinkerings.

10 course and dessert all flawlessly paired with beautiful wines. As someone who throws a dinner party from time to time let me just say this was a huge feat and a huge success! We're lucky and grateful to have been included.

Some of my favorite dishes of the night were:

- exploded Delice de Bourgogne & strawberries
- bacon, apple, salted caramel
- champagne grapes
- smoked quail w/ cherries, asparagus stuffed w/ garlic caper cream

But really my favorite thing was spending time with such great friends, some for whom this food was quite new and interesting. And of course our wonderful wonderful host!

After glasses of 1905 D'Oliveras Verdelho Madeira (ok I'm kind of just rubbing it in at this point) we all left to sleep off the food coma. The next morning those of us who don't own a home on the island met for lunch before buying some bottles of Rosie and heading to our ferry.

Sometimes it doesn't have to take too many miles to transport you to a relaxing mini break (I even bought a magnet!). Good friends and good food (especially when made by the former) is a special get away in it's own.

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IcelandAir Sega Class

I've cashed in some miles to meet Dayne in Europe while he works for a month in London. I'm sitting in the first class of Iceland Air which is basically like being in first class on Alaska Air - same plane I think, absolutely the same configuration.

But there are differences of course. Before boarding I was able to sit in the first class lounge which they share with British Air. Free wifi, free wine or cocktails, snacks, etc. Your basic first class lounge & very relaxing to hang while waiting.

Once on board I was welcomed with a glass of champagne, fuzzy blanket, pillow (don't see those anymore) & a Bally toiletries bag with some little treats. I plugged my electronicals into the jack in my seat. Next came the complimentary to borrow noise canceling headphones. Oh yeah, this I like!

We take off & it's happy hour. Gin & tonic for me accompanied by a dish of spicy peanuts/wasabi peas/soy beans. Shortly there after menus in leather covers are passed out announcing the evenings meal- salmon sushi rolls, steak with red wine reduction sauce, cheesy risotto, green beans, cheesecake with berry coulis & a chocolate truffle. A Barossa is poured in my glass. With the exception of the overcooked steak this is all very good & makes for a hearty meal.

The wide seats recline about the same as the seats on Alaska Air (they really are the same planes) only these have foot rests also making it much more comfortable to grab a few z's.

In Reykjavik it was a quick transfer as the airport is quite small. My flight to Paris was 3 hours and there were 3 of us in the 1st class cabin, the rest was empty! Total relaxation as I spread my stuff out, had a little omelet for breakfast and then took a 2 hour snooze.

When I went to pick up my bag I noticed that they had them marked so that they came off first also. Handy. IcelandAir certainly isn't super swank and the seats in Saga don't have massage settings like some but I was happy to have the extra comfort and will look forward to my return flight in Saga Class also!

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Location:Paris, France

24 Hours Lummi Island

For Valentine's Day this year Dayne gave me an overnight & dinner at Willows Inn on Lummi Island, it had been in the press a lot since the sous chef from Noma made his move there. Due to a number of things we needed to postpone the getaway but finally went a couple of weeks ago. We drove up on a Sunday morning & returned the next day, both making it home in time for 3pm conference calls.

Everything on Lummi is tiny it seems, starting with the 20 car ferry, which on our sailing held just 6 vehicles. It's a short 8 minute trip to the pretty island, population 800 (which I really think might be a high estimate!). The drive to Willows Inn took us past the only other restaurant on the island, the post office & lovely waterfront homes. The Inn itself is unassuming, rustic even, with a large front porch looking out to the water.

Dayne had rented us electric bikes which we took out while our room was made up. These were so fun, I'd love to get one at home! We did a loop around the island, stopping to take in views of the sound, Mt. Baker, multiple deer, the beaches and have lunch at said other restaurant.

Arriving back at Willows we wandered around checking out the grounds, the other rooms/cabins, the bocci ball court and the hot tub. It's a perfectly quiet and lazy way to spend a day.

We had the Sans Souci room (extra credit if you know what that means without looking it up) which was very comfortable & even had a cute little stove/fireplace. I will say the room also could stand an update, especially the bathroom, nothing serious but telltale signs of wear and tear could easily be handled.

Happy hour at the Inn starts at 4pm, these people have class, and although there were no advertised snacks we were offered some very nice marinated cheese & bread to go along with our drinks (the white sangria was especially refreshing, the cocktail made with sorrel looked hideous).

The main attraction here is the dinner of course. We were seated in the spare but comfortable dining room and a selection of fun amuse dishes were delivered. These little bites definitely set the stage for the tone of the entire menu. A wooden box arrived which when you lifted the lid smoke escaped revealing beautiful bites of salmon. A basket filled with fresh from the garden lettuces and radishes (sprinkled with "dirt") was delicious dipped in a pot of green goddess.

The dinner progressed with every plate looking like it had been on it's way to a garden/flower show. Edible plants of all types not just for garnish but holding center court with gorgeous selections of seafood. Everything local, most everything picked that day. 11 plates total, some 1 bite some a bit more, paired with wine. And they kicked this in at no extra charge:

Additionally we ran into 2 friends of ours just there for the night and a romantic little get away, we ran into them 2 days earlier in Seattle too. Goes to show what a small world it is even on an island.

The next morning we had breakfast back in the same dining room. House made English muffins, poached eggs, bacon and hollandaise sauce was included in our room charge.

Additional photos of food and fauna here




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Happy 4th of July!

I love the 4th! I think it's my favorite holiday (which is saying a lot since there are no presents involved!). Even as a kid it was the one day that my parent's seemed happy. Dad loved to set off fireworks and mom loved to bake and have a potluck.

Dad and I would go to the grocery store parking lot fireworks stands and I'd try to talk him into buying the biggest box of boom on the shelves. I'd get to light things like Magic Black Snakes, Smoking Log Cabin and Sparklers. As I got older and we would go out to the reservation to buy our fun I'd get to set off bottle rockets out of Pop Shop bottles (cream soda being my favorite). All the neighbors would put their fireworks together so it seemed to last all night.

In high school there were parties and treks out to Coeur d'Alene for the big show on the lake. When I moved from Spokane to Seattle in college there were more parties and big shows in Bellevue, Lake Union and Elliot Bay (I miss the Fourth of Jul-Ivars). When Dayne and I met we would head to his friend's houseboat every year for a BBQ and show watching from the roof.

Last year we were in Paris for the 4th. Obviously there were no fireworks or flag cupcakes but we did have a lovely day. First up was a delicious brunch at a friend's house. Next came a really enjoyable afternoon spent picnicking at Parc des Buttes-Chaumont with more friends we don't see very often. And later we partook in delicious cocktails in the American style cocktail bar Prescription Cocktail Club.

My perfect way to spend the 4th is a half day at the beach followed by a party and then viewing of a big show. We'll be back on a Lake Union houseboat with friends tonight and it's sure to be a great time. The sun is shining, there will be drinks and grilling and when those big pyrotechnics go BOOM I'll be feeling like a kid again!

I hope you all are spending the day exactly how you like it too! Happy 4th of July!

A Mini Apple Weekend

Before we left for Europe last month (posts to come sometime this year) we spent a quick weekend in Minneapolis. Sadly it was for the burial service of Dayne's aunt Sue who passed away last winter. But looking on the up side it was a chance for me to see parts of Minnesota where Dayne's family have lived and get a chance to meet his cousin's aunts and uncles.

We stayed in downtown Minneapolis at the newly opened Kimpton Grand Hotel. This is a fabulous hotel right in the center of things. And on top of the rooms being so awesome The Six15Room is arguably one of the best bars in town. I don't even have a picture of it as I was always holding a cocktail while in it but take my word and stop in if you are ever there.

Our first night in town we checked out another of the city's best bars (I think there are only 3) called Bradstreet Crafthouse. The decor is a bit Moroccan and the cocktails were fantastic. The bar (again in a hotel) started us off with a small amuse drink while we perused the large menu, I'm a sucker for that!

seemed in focus when I took it ;)

Dinner that night was at Haute Dish, how could I resist the name? The restaurant serves takes on... you guessed it! Both my Tater Tot Haute Dish and Dayne's Lamb X 5 were excellent. It's casual and upbeat, housed it what seems to be an old tavern.

We had a 2 hour drive out to Kettle River the next morning for Sue's service. Let me just go on record saying that there is very little to see between Minneapolis and Kettle River. I didn't take a picture but the cemetery is a tiny little square of land right on the edge of town. Sue's family still lives in the area and there was a very nice family lunch at her sister's house after. Lots of stories of small towns and families. Very nice.

After the 4 hour round trip drive we were happy to get back to the Kimpton and enjoy a Mint Julep while watching the Kentucky Derby.

Dinner that night was at the much lauded Restaurant Alma. One note, we were offered and took the Kimpton town car service to dinner which ran us $20. A cab back was $10. I don't really mind that except the town car guy told us it would be the same price, boo! Anywho the dinner was good but maybe not all together memorable.

The next day we drove to St. Louis and saw the King Tut exhibit at the Science Museum (thru Aug). I had never seen it and I thought it was awesome! Unfortunately no photos were allowed so I don't have anything to show you, but if you haven't seen it and you come across it somewhere go! It's worth the (expensive) ticket price.

Photo by fmerenda via Flickr

Vancouver Weekend Getaway

Since Dayne wasn't able to attend "Mini Tales" with me in March and I still had a fantastic Living Social deal for the Pan Pacific we headed north Easter weekend just to do a little eating and drinking.

We checked in to the Club Lounge and they upgraded us to a Harbor View room which was very nice. The weather was looking awesome for the entire weekend and the views of the mountains, sea and city were gorgeous!

First stop for the weekend was L'Abattoir where we met friends for a few cocktails before having an outstanding dinner. I ate here on my last trip also and just loved it! A definite favorite in Gas Town. L'Abattoir does a couple of barrel aged cocktails which I was excited for Dayne to try but unfortunately none of them were ready when we were there. Next time!

Cocktails continued at Calabash Bistro where the drink menu boasts some seriously delicious rums from Puerto Rico, Trinidad, Cuba, etc.  I had the Cohiba Rakston which was the clear winner of the evening! Havana Club 7 year old, coco nib infused Appleton VX, Late bottled vintage port, agave syrup and bitters, stirred and strained into a chilled glass coated with Cuban cigar and vanilla pod tincture. Thanks to Shawn at Clive's for the tip on this spot!

Making our way back to the Pan Pacific we noticed PourHouse was still open and for the first time since our initial visit 3 years ago it wasn't packed. We stopped in for a very nice nightcap and enjoyed the near empty bar.

The next morning, as we were heading out of the elevator, we ran (almost literally) into Rod Stewart! I never recognize stars but there was no mistaking the aging crooner. Star sighting! :)

We spent our day poking around the Vancouver Flea Market, checking out Vancouver photographer Brian Howell's "Shopping Cart" exhibition at the Windsor Gallery, eating poutine at Fritz and drinking beers at Granville Island Brewery and then walking it all off with a stroll around the sea wall at Stanley Park. It was just perfect weather to be out and about (Canadian accent please).

We started our evening with dinner and drinks back in Gas Town at Boneta. Another cute little place doing both cocktails and food excellently. We really enjoyed it here but both of us thought we liked L'Abattoir a bit better overall.

A quick taxi afterward to China Town and we bellied up to the bar at The Keefer. Quirky, dark and a tad mysterious the drinks were delicious here as well. We both loved the apothecary ambiance, grim x-rays, test tube lights, house made tinctures and infusions. This may be my favorite bar in Vancouver right now.

No weekend in Vancouver would be complete without soup dumplings at Lin Chinese on Broadway (for me at least!). We met our friends there the next morning for a delicious brunch of green onion pancakes, Beijing meat pastries, soup dumplings & honey prawns.

Love Vancouver!

All photos here                 

Team Oslo

Our last few days in Norway were spent in Oslo where Matthieu & Violaine (of team Cuba & partial team Japan) joined us from Paris. Before celebrating New Year's Eve we walked around the city and tried to check out the changing of the guard at the fort but for reasons we could not figure out it never happened. We continued our walk down Karl Johan, past the skating rink on the way to the King's Palace.

Caitlin and I prepare to knock on the King's door

The next day was stunningly bright, sunny,  and cold. We boarded a sailboat for a cruise around the harbor. The ship was decked out with reindeer pelt covered benches and hot glogg. We cruised past the very cool Opera House with its roof that you can walk on & "floating" iceberg sculpture.

Then on to Viking Ship & Kon Tiki museum. During the cruise we spotted a dolphin in the harbor. It soon was chasing and performing for the ship. Sadly one of the deck hands told us that every year dolphins get lost in the harbor & can't find their way out. He also told us that within the next few weeks most of the water there would be frozen over, the temperature of the water making it almost impossible for the dolphin to breath, he'd most likely die. Sad and way to bring down the ship Mr!

Trying to find someplace open for lunch that wasn't already packed was difficult at best. We finally had to succumb to having beers and snacks at a TGIFridays of all places. This is the curse of holiday travel sometime.

Keeping with the American theme we headed out that evening to The Nighthawk Diner, which is known to have a great cocktail and burger menu. The drinks did not disappoint and the burgers got good marks too. Filled with locals, this is quite a fun spot to go to if you ever find yourself in Oslo, holiday or not.

The next morning Caitlin headed back to London and the rest of us grabbed the subway, headed to the Munch museum- small but really great in showing his evolution of style. You should know if you go that "The Scream" is not housed here, it's in Oslo's National Museum, but there are some really amazing pieces and I'd dare say nowhere else in the world would you find such a collection of his work.

Now losing Matthieu & Violaine back to Paris, Dayne & I headed off by bus to the Kon Tiki museum. I didn't know much about Thor's sea excursions before visiting it but I was really impressed with the rickety rafts he built and sailed the seas with. The museum has the original and also a replica. I still can't understand how these people survived multiple ocean crossings- Gilligan & crew should have taken note!

We met Forest for a last aquavit at the famed Grand Cafe before all grabbing our bags and taking a bus out to the airport Radisson Blu since we had an unfathomably early flight out the next morning. Pre-dinner martinis and an ok dinner at the hotel wrapped up this awesome Nordic experience.

Gingerbread Man Christmas Tree at Airport

Things we learned that are exclusively Norwegian to us include:

- if there are lit candles outside a restaurant or bar it's open
- Norwegian hotels serve the best and most massive breakfasts we've encountered so far (Stockholm and most of Japan are close)
- we have never encountered so much free wifi in anyplace in the world! If you go, don't waste your money on a data plan, you won't need it if you pick your hotels right
- very little is open during the Christmas holiday (week between new years), it's a very family oriented time with even just a handful of restaurants and bars being open
- Norway has very strange liquor laws making it difficult at best to purchase beer, wine, or booze outside of an actual bar
- of the 15 brands of aquavit made in Norway I had 10: Line, Gammel Opland (fav), Gilde Maquavit, Trondheim, Bergen, Antarctic, Hammer, Loitens Line, Taffle & Oslo
- Norwegian aquavit is NEVER served chilled since it is aged in oak barrels
-skiing was invented in Norway


All Oslo photos here


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