If you ever have the pleasure of traveling with my friend Aaron, eventually he will convince you to travel out of the way for a meal.
To an island? √
To a farm? √
To and abandoned village? √
To a remote farmhouse on the Faroe Islands? √
While in Copenhagen, Aaron decided that going to Sweden for dinner one night should be on the itinerary and made reservations at the 2-star Michelin restaurant Daniel Berlin in Skåne Tranås Sweden. Originally I balked at the idea but eventually my FOMO got the better of me and I agreed. And boy am I happy that I did!
Albert, Aaron and I caught the train from the main station in Copenhagen and had a 1 ½ hour ride to Ystad, Sweden. From here we took a taxi for another 30 minute drive to the restaurant.
The restaurant is in a tiny village of just 250 people. The converted old house is absolutely charming, as are the staff! There are only 5 tables so reservations are a must.
Over the next 4+ hours we would be served 18 courses, varied sizes, all beautiful and using locally foraged and grown ingredients.
In the beginning of the meal the offerings were served family style and were meant to be taken in one bite. Whenever the course included shellfish or pork they would make a more vegetarian option for Aaron. I feel like Daniel Berlin did this better than a lot of restaurants I've been to with him.
The courses became individual servings as we neared the middle and a couple were prepared table side like this mackerel with beach mustard, radish pods, and aromatic broth.
Chef Berlin's signature dish is a whole celeriac that has been roasted in beechtree, brought table side and the soft vegetable is scooped out of the blackened skin. It wasn't pretty but it was delicious.
I needed a walk and some fresh air before cheese and dessert! It was still light out as I wandered around the beautiful gardens that surround the restaurant.
After our cheese course, and some lovely seasonal berries served with elderflower, we were escorted through the gardens to the hothouse which had been transformed into a lovely spot for after dinner drinks. It was absolutely charming.
We were served a few more little sweets with our drinks here as well.
The only hiccup of the night came when we left. The restaurant had assured us that they would put us in a taxi to catch the last train when it was time. But either they forgot or the taxi was a little late and it was a mad dash to the train station. We didn't really even have an option to stay the night in Sweden as none of us had our passports.
We had the same taxi driver and he was determined to get us to the station on time. Just as we were turning in, and he was telling us exactly which train to run to and jump on, a motorcycle collided with our car! Luckily the rider was ok and our driver waived us off and we just made the train!
Quite an exciting end to the evening! Aaron and I ended up walking from the main station back to our Airbnb as there were no taxis at 12:30am when we arrived. So I'd maybe suggest staying over in Sweden if you are lucky enough to get a reservation here.
Daniel Berlin has announced that he will close the restaurant on September 30th, 2020 to take a break. I'm hoping that he will reopen as I'd love to return and see what he continues to do.
All dinner photos here.
Other posts from this trip:
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