Thursday, November 7, 2024

Exploring Marrakesh, Morocco

Trip date: September 2023

On our first morning in Marrakesh we had booked a private walking tour of the medina with a local guide. This had worked out really well in all of the cities we had travelled through so we were excited. Jamal started by taking us by one of the local hammams; just like mosques, most neighborhoods have a hammam, or public bath. He explained that there were seperate hours for men and women, and that it was a very social place for everyone. Kinda like a coffee shop!

Then we arrived at the Madrasa Ben Youssef. The interior of the courtyard of this 14th century Islamic school is possibly one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen! The tile work is absolutely mesmerizing!

And just like the one we visited in Fes, the upstairs students' rooms were not fancy at all. 

From here Jamal took us through one of the many souk's in the medina. We didn't really have time to shop as this was just a morning tour, so we tried hard to remember where we were so that we could return another day. Didn't happen! The souks are just too confusing!! 

We stopped into one of the rug co-ops to see how the rugs are made. These shops are said to represent Berber women of different tribes around the country and sell their rugs to help them earn a living. Jamal assured us that we didn't have to buy anything, that this was just so that we had a better understanding of the craft. We were seated, and offered tea or water, and then a couple of men started unrolling rugs and showing us different Berber patterns and styles. 

It felt very salesy though. We let them show us everything, Gail was originally considering a rug anyway, and there were a couple I thought were nice but I hadn't planned on buying anything. We politely took the little scraps of paper that the manager wrote prices on for the few we inquired about and then we were back out into the busy streets of the medina. 

We walked through Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakesh's huge square. Jamal told us that at night this place is teeming with people and filled with hundreds of food and juice stands. This is also where you will find street musicians, performers, and the awful monkey handlers and snake charmers. Jamal warned that if you take a photo of them, they will come and demand money from you. And they are generally not polite about it. 

During the day there are just a few vendors and a couple of animal abusers under the shade of umbrellas. At the far corner of the square sits the Koutoubia Mosque, the largest mosque in the city. The mosque was closed due to damage from the earthquake, but as we aren't Muslim we wouldn't have been able to go in even if it was open. It's a striking symbol of the city and when the ladies and I walked past it that evening I thought it was even more beautiful!

We walked back thru the Jemaa el-Fnaa and Jamal led us to a spice shop/pharmacy where we again were given a little presentation this time on herbal remedies. Even though we all left with something, I would have preferred to be seeing more of what we had on our list, like the Jewish Quarter or Mellah.

We did walk thru some of the Hayel Mella, mainly just the market, but it would have been more interesting to see the synagogues. 

Our last stop was to one of the local bakeries. As in the other cities, the neighbors take their dough to the baker in their unique linen so they can identify it once cooked. This baker was also doing some open faced sandwiches for a local cafe.

We ended our tour just a short ways from Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Jamal showed us around a couple of the food stands and then was nice enough to walk us to Nomad where we wanted to have lunch. We discussed this tour while having our lovely meal on the terrace overlooking the medina. We also discussed the rug that I liked. I ran some numbers and went back to the shop after and negotiated hard. It took a while but I did end up buying a beautiful Berber rug!

I think we all felt that this was not the best tour & guide that we hired. Wasn't terrible but compared to our guide in Fez it was just really meh. Add to that the obvious kickback/commission spots that we were taken to (he even messaged me asking how much I paid for my rug!) it seemed he was more focused on earning vs. guiding. For those reasons I will not be recommending him here. But I still would recommend a walking tour of the medina.

It was quite hot when we were in the city so it was always really refreshing to come home in the afternoon, poor some cold wine, and have a little plunge in the cool pool. 

One of our favorite days in Marrakesh was spent at the incredible Majorelle Gardens. Originally designed in 1920 by French artist Jacques Majorelle, it was almost destroyed in the early 80's by a hotel developer, but Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent purchased it and restored it after years of neglect. 
The garden is a haven with so many hues of green from all the plants, and accents painted bright yellow and of course the patented Majorelle Blue. It's stunning! There are trees, cactus, fountains, ponds, etc. The garden crews work non-stop picking up any fallen leaf or petal! It's absolutely pristine!

And as gorgeous as the gardens are, the onsite Berber Museum was absolutely incredible! No pictures are allowed. I also loved the gift shop where I bought some tea that I haven't found to be available anywhere else! I'd say this is a definite do-not-miss. 

Next door is the YSL Museum, a wonderful collection of the designer's sketches, designs, and a film of his fashion shows. Unfortunately there are no photos allowed here either, you'll just have to go and see for yourself! We had bought our combo tickets online in advance as they sell out frequently. 

Wandering the area after, we found a super cute homewares shop called Chabi Chic!

Our last full day in Marrakesh was a dedicated shopping day! Caitlin had read about a small shop selling handwoven scarves, bags, etc called Fiber Trip. It took us a while to locate but it was worth the hunt and the owner was super nice helping us pick out styles.


When we passed The Secret Garden we decided to stop in; we had expected it to be on our tour on our first day but it wasn't. This is another amazing and beautiful garden!

An oasis in the middle of the city! 

Back to shopping! We stopped into Corinne Bensimon, a lovely design shop, and I splurged on some gorgeous table linens and had then shipped back home. Caitlin and I stopped in the shoe souk and tried on pretty much everything before buying leather sandals and slippers. Gail found some really fun straw lamps & we were all amazed at how the shop owner was able to fold them into really small packages! We also found a really nice little jewelry store and I bought some pretty earrings. By the time we were done, we had spent every bit of Moroccan dirham we had!  


And that worked out just perfectly because the next morning we were up and out early. Our Airbnb had arranged the guy with the wheelbarrow to load up our luggage and take it to the private taxi they had scheduled to be waiting for us. 

Traveling around Morocco had been a dream of mine for a long time, and this girls' trip was an absolutely fantastic realization of that!


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