Sunday, May 31, 2020

Trogir; So Nice, Went Twice

Trip date: June 2019

My 3-week Balkan trip was coming to an end as I drove from Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina to Trogir, Croatia for one last night. This time I reviewed the Google Map route and stuck to the main highway. It was an easy 3-hour drive to the Split Airport where I dropped my rental car.

Aaron had had great luck with Ubers in Croatia so my plan had been to use one from the airport to Trogir. Unfortunately I had 3 separate requests cancel so I finally had to grab a taxi for 100 Kuna.

Trogir has a lovely old town with a fantastic pedestrian-only center. The small harbor is filled with yachts and outdoor cafes are busy with locals and tourists.

I knew all of this because Aaron and I had taken a day trip to the cute town when we were staying in nearby Split. We caught a bus from the main station and in 30-minutes were walking around beautiful Trogir.

We wandered the narrow cobblestone streets until we came out to the promenade. It was a short walk to the old fort where we walked the walls and climbed the crumbling tower for wonderful views of the city and the sea. 

After an Aperol Spritz break at a waterfront café, we explored the cathedral, which has some very impressive cases of silver and gold relics. The bell tower is a great way to get both your steps and your views of the Adriatic. 

As the old town is small, we saw a lot on our day trip, and it was easy to catch the bus back to Split. 

Trogir is actually closer to the airport than Split, which made it a better choice for my overnight since I had an early flight the next day. And since I had already explored, I had my last evening in Croatia free to relax and enjoy the scenery. 

The taxi dropped me at the small bridge on the border of the pedestrian only area and I had a short walk to the XII Century Heritage Hotel. I had used some of my Alaska Air miles for a big beautiful room with a view of the sea (did you know you could use miles for hotels?). The hotel doesn't have a lift but the front desk had someone take my bags up the 4 flights of stairs. Lifesaver!!

After getting cleaned up I headed down to the café Amfora which sits right in front of the hotel and had a glass of the local white wine while people watching. It was a stunner of an evening!

I was really looking forward to dinner at Trs, which had been recommended and I'd walked past while in town with Aaron. But I hadn't made reservations for their beautiful terrace and it was completely full. I decided to take a seat inside. The food was great but the ambiance was just ok. Make a ressie here if you are in town!

On my way back to my hotel I stopped for a scoop of the most delicious fig ice cream. My first meal of this trip in Slovenia had figs in it, so it seemed fitting for my last bite.

I also had one last local brandy at the café before heading to bed. As I do!

My flight the next morning was ridiculously early, so the front desk had arranged for a taxi to be at the fort, where the pedestrian area ends, at 5:30am. The desk clerk checked me out and then retrieved my luggage for me so  I wouldn't have to lug it down the stairs. He even walked me to the taxi to make sure they were there as there wouldn't be others queued so early in the morning. 

I HATE EARLY MORNINGS! But walking thru the sleeping town was beautiful.

It took 10-minutes to get to the airport, I was there 1 ½ hours early and not one single thing was open. I could have slept another 30 minutes easily. 

It was a long day of travel home as there isn't really a direct flight out of Split. I flew Croatian Air to Zagreb where I had a short layover, just enough time to do some duty free shopping in the very nice airport. Then I flew on to Paris to catch my Icelandair flight. 

I had used miles to fly Saga Class, which was much more comfortable than coach, but also added another stop in Iceland. I popped into the lounge for a quick bite and a glass of champagne. Icelandair is in tiny concourse at CDG with no Duty Free so I missed out on buying some of my normal treats. 

The layover in KEF was very quick, just enough time for a latte. And then I was on my final leg home. Saga Class doesn't have layflat beds, but the food and drink are very good, the gintonic menu is fun, and there is much more room to relax. 

So after 21+ days, 3 countries, numerous twisty roads, a private yacht, countless truffles, and four final flights I arrived back in Seattle.

This was such an epic trip, so many adventures and some bucket list moments! I loved all of it (but especially Slovenia! Shhh, don't tell Croatia and Bosnia i Herzegovina!) 

All photos from Trogir, Croatia here.

Other posts from this trip:

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